 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: monopolova
Date: 2017-01-25 11:45
Hello all,
I have a Boosey and Hawkes Edgware clarinet that I am restoring as an amateur. Serial #: 105326. Everything's been peachy -- keys are off and polished. Damaged pads are removed, and I'll be re-padding tomorrow.
The only problem was that when I went to wash the dismantled body pieces in water and dish soap, the black instantly turned a greenish hue!! Interestingly, the areas under where the keys used to be remains black -- almost as a shadow of the keys. Weird ...
I know that the old rubbers and plastics can turn green (and other colors) over time -- as has been discussed on this site. But, has anyone encountered such a quick color change, and due to soap & water, no less? Perhaps the green was waiting under a layer of grime which I washed off? Let me know your ideas ...
Thanks much,
David
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2017-01-25 11:57
Depends on the soap or pH level and the water temperature. The hotter, the greener.
The thing is that the upper layer of hard rubber (at least those old formulas) "react" when exposed to sunlight, ie something happens to the sulphur that is used in the vulcanization process when hard rubber is formed. With water and soap you're washing loose sulphur or whatever molecules away which turns the surface green. (all in layperson's words)
Reversing is a difficult task. I have had reasonably good success with finest steel wool (which I probably wouldn't want to use on a mouthpiece) and Fiebing's leather dye (black, obviously). But it's an arduous process. I wonder if today's hard rubber formulas are better.
Else leave it camo-ey as is and say it's a Boosey Duck Hunt Clarinet. :-P
--
Ben
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-01-25 17:40
Washing hard rubber is hot water will instantly turn and instrument green. I've done it with a favourite mouthpiece and once with a clarinet body. Blam!! Instant green. I've used Feibigs leather dye in USMC black with very good results, a hard rubber Imperial I treated about 5 years ago is still jet black.
Tony F.
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Author: monopolova
Date: 2017-01-25 21:27
Thank you both, Ben and Tony.
Tony: what was your process for dying with the Fiebing's? Did you also prep the body with steel wool? Anything special to do after application?
Thank you much.
David
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-01-26 01:15
Hi David,
The process that I use is to first strip off all the keywork. The posts and joint corks can be left in place. The dye does not effect metal and wipes off. Wash the parts to be dyed in warm water with some dishwashing detergent, scrub thoroughly with a soft brush, paying attention to the joints and tone holes. I use al old tooth brush and cotton buds for this.
Next, wash the parts in alcohol to remove any traces of skin oils and allow to air dry. When dry Apply Feibings dye with a soft paint brush. I find about 1cm works well. I use a piece of dowel down the bore to allow me to do this without touching the parts. The dye dries quite quickly, so apply it in even strokes and allow to dry. Use a cotton bud to do the tone holes. When dry, wipe the parts down with an alcohol-soaked cloth until the cloth no longer changes colour. This will remove any surplus dye and leave a smooth black finish. If there are areas that look thin then apply a second coat as necessary.
There are no dimensional changes, this is not a coating process, it is a dyeing process. The dye will just wipe off any metal parts leaving them unaffected.
I would not use this process on a mouthpiece. I have restored green mouthpieces with careful use of fine steel wool.
Tony F.
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