 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Bill
Date: 2001-04-20 21:29
I just got a copy of Issue 3 of The Woodwind Quarterly to read an article on pinning and filling cracks. I found the three page article very well written, and I now know how it's done, not that I would attempt it.
The next to last step, masking the epoxy, puzzled me. It says to place masking tape over the epoxy. This is to smooth the finish and help eliminate bubbles. The masking tape is removed after the expoxy is hard. Question: Wouldn't the tape stick to the clarinet, or remove some of the expoxy with the removal of the tape?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: David Spiegelthal
Date: 2001-04-20 22:31
Masking tape might or might not stick to the cured epoxy (always let the epoxy dry thoroughly before removing the tape!). To get around the problem altogether, you could put a piece of Teflon tape (pipe tape/thread tape) over the epoxy, thenin turn hold that down with a slightly larger piece of masking tape. The Teflon tape will not stick to the cured epoxy at all.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Jim
Date: 2001-04-21 04:57
One of my many interests (I have quite a few, most expensive) is boating. Even the best boater will ding the gel coat (outside layer) occasionally. The technique is to just level the depression with the repair material, then press poly film (food wrap) onto the surface and let it cure. The poly peels easily and a very smooth surface is left. This should be the same principle.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2001-04-21 06:43
I wouldn't put masking tape over it, especially if it is not clear and I cannot tell where the epoxy is spreading under the tape.
I put sellotape along either side of the crack and around the pin holes (a piece of tape with a hole punched in it), then do the epoxy thing. To really push the epoxy to the bottom of the crack there is nothing better than a finger, cleaned straight after with acetone. I probably should wear a glove but I can't imagine much penetrating my thick finger epidermis . Then I wipe excess off and neatly apply a little more so that it is 'proud', but not thick on the sellotape. When it is half set I peel off the selotape and all excess epoxy comes with it off the timber. Then I wait for the epoxy to harden and finish it off level with fine wet&dry over a flat surface, & abrasive impregnated cup wheels in a micromotor unit. A cup brush with canauba wax on it does the final polish.
I have settled on sellotape because the epoxy does not attack it, it comes off easily, and it stretches enough to follow a curved crack.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
