 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2012-04-10 16:39
I recently pulled out a reed that I started to break in several weeks ago and labeled "too hard." I had already done all the standard adjustments, including: lightly sanding the back (bottom half) with 600 grit paper, and then some adjustments to make the reed play more freely, including cutting lines on the bark and on the base of the vamp. It still seemed a little too hard, but I continued to play. Then I noticed that saliva was running out from underneath the reed at the base of the table of the mouthpiece, indicating a warped surface. So the reed had *not* been too hard, it had been leaking at the base, making me expend more effort to get it to play. So I sanded it some more with 600 grit. There was not much change, so I did the mouthpiece suction check, pulling the barrel and mouthpiece off, and sucking in to see if the reed held against the mouthpiece, and it didn't. After more sanding with 600 grit, and no improvement, I finally switched to 320 grit. After two sandings with 320 I finally got a flat surface, and the reed played much more freely. The only problems is that my previous adjustments left the reed a little too soft, and my attempts to rectify it by clipping failed (for a variety of reasons, but that's a different topic).
What I learned: don't make any reed adjustments until I have done a mouthpiece suction check. For that matter, always do a mouthpiece suction check as part of the reed breaking in process.
Laurie
(Mr. Laurie J Braaten)
Post Edited (2012-04-10 16:48)
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2012-04-11 01:50
Good post. I usually sand the back flat and that's the FIRST step. THEN I worry about the thicknesses by working on the sides and ears.
At least, when I used to use cane reeds that's what I'd do.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2012-04-11 01:50
double post. SORRY!!!! :'(
US Army Japan Band
Post Edited (2012-04-11 01:58)
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2012-04-11 02:19
Sanding is always my first step too, but I've never had a reed this warped. It pays to check, should have been a no brainer.
Laurie
(Mr. Laurie J Braaten)
Post Edited (2012-04-11 20:59)
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2012-04-11 02:28
Another possibility to consider is that the reed really *was* too hard, but that somewhere along the process of breaking it in it warped, making things worse. It's worth checking if a new reed is warped when you first take it out of the box, but every reed that's hard to blow isn't warped. Pretty much any reed will blow more easily if you sand the flat side down - just making it thinner will do that, whether the reed is warped or not, but it can take too much of the spring out of the reed as well. Clipping won't change your having thinned the entire piece of cane, which for players who like thicker blank reeds nullifies the reason for using them.
If you are able to salvage reeds in this way, my hat is off to you. My own inclination, if the reed is unplayably stiff (for whatever reason) is to chuck it and move on to another one. Life is too short to spend weeks on one reed.
Karl
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Author: Ed
Date: 2012-04-11 12:25
Good points. Often there are reeds that warp slightly in the wetting and drying process. It causes the reed to seem hard or unresponsive. Even a slight warpage in the back can cause response issues.
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Author: Clarinet1965
Date: 2012-04-12 01:09
I don't know if this way of sanding the back of the reed is customary, but it sure works for me..
I use a 6" metal file that I carry in my case. It's just a little wider than a Bb reed. Before a playing session, I hold the reed in such a way as to reflect an overhead light...and I notice the reflection is usually dull. I then take the reed, lay it on the file along its length and run it back and forth several times...being careful to keep the entire reed on the metal file. I then hold the reed to reflect the light again. Where it is now shiny is where the reed was possibly warped before.
I have tested and experienced that this helps the reed to play much better. The metal file is of such a cut that it takes off only the slightest amount of reed. In fact, I cannot even see any reed "powder" buildup in the file grooves, but it really seems to flatten the back of the reed.
Thanks for reading,
Warren Cadwell
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