 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: blazian
Date: 2011-12-19 21:01
Hey all, I'm restoring an old Selmer Series 9* full boehm Bb. The whole thing is in great condition except for one key. Whoever played this clarinet last must not have liked the alternate C#/G# trill and had it removed. It's a fairly simple key but I don't know how to go about replacing it. I was wondering if I should just try to find one instead. Thoughts?
- Martin
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-12-19 21:36
Is it the one with the bend in it and soldered to the side of the key barrel or the one that fits over the key barrel?
Both are relatively easy to make from scratch out of nickel silver sheet, or look for a scrap Selmer lower joint (or even a Lark clarinet as they copied the shape of Selmer keys) and use the B/F# sliver key touchpiece from that as they're the same part.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: blazian
Date: 2011-12-19 21:47
This is the kind soldered to the side of the key barrel. I guess I asked the wrong question because I can't really do this myself anyway. I'll have to send this in somewhere.
It seems my joints are mismatched because the serials are different. The bottom tenon of the top joint is cracked and the pieces are being held in by the cork. I was wondering if it was supposed to already have been capped. The receiver on the bottom joint is lined.
So now there are two things I need fixed.
- Martin
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-12-19 21:59
The sockets are lined on Selmers with articulated C#/G# keys, so that's normal - if they weren't lined, then that would be a cause for concern.
I'm sure a sliver key touchpiece from another make of clarinet can be adapted to fit and made to look as near to the existing one as possible.
How far apart are the serial numbers? This shouldn't be too much of a problem either provided the C#/G# toneholes are both the same diameters on both the tenon and socket.
Split tenons can be repaired either by grafting a new one on if it's really bad, or if it's only split through to the tonehole, fitting the existing tenon with a metal tenon cap (which they don't have - only the top tenon has the tenon cap on Series 9 and 9* clarinets with artic. C#/G#) or carbon fibre banding it. The tonehole through the tenon is a weakness, so chances are if they're going to split, they'll split through the tonehole and terminate there instead of splitting right through to the LH3 tonehole (although sometimes they may not be so lucky).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: blazian
Date: 2011-12-19 22:21
The two joints are only 442 apart so I'm not particularly worried.
The tenon has a crack that terminates at the C#/G# hole and another two that terminate at the opposite corners of the tonehole "square." I was thinking of taking the chunks out and gluing them back in. Is it worth it to have the tenon capped as well?
- Martin
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-12-19 22:45
Yeah - glue the broken bits back and then turn the end down to receive the new tenon cap. At least the tenon ring will hold it all solid once it's fitted.
Measure the diameter (and depth) of the socket instead of taking the measurements from the existing tenon as chances are the existing tenon will be too narrow and quite possibly too short. Once the tenon ring is in place it can be turned down to make it a good fit in the socket before fitting the tenon cork.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-12-20 10:27
Attachment: slivers 001.JPG (790k)
Attached is a photo of the C-Db/G-Ab/alt. E-F trill key and the cross B/F# sliver key on my Series 9* Bb.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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