 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: julesjmj
Date: 2010-05-10 05:05
To those with some expertise,
I once was a clarinet major in college and did pretty well, but it has been some number of years since then. In the meantime, I have continued playing piano and organ and singing in choirs, gone back to grad school, been teaching, and moved to Phoenix, AZ from upstate NY (potsdam), which is where my clarinet has been until now; and for the last two years I've been teaching in a Montessori school (ages 6-9)
Since it's been so long, any knowledge I once had is pretty much essentially gone, so I could use some help. I have a Buffet R13, a Caravan mouthpiece, and I play on gonzalez reeds. I have a separate reed storage system and homemade humidifier mechanism in my clarinet case (film canister with damp sponge, holes in top) I don't plan to go from no playing the last several years to a lot of playing, but just slowly getting back into it. My concerns are what, if anything, should I do or look for with my instrument before playng? This part of Arizona is obviously a completely different climate than what I grew up in and was in during college. So any info or suggestions on that would be very helpful. I live here year round in an apartment. I don't turn on the heat at all during the winter and I don't turn on the AC until June, and even then I keep it right around 80, except for when I'm not home and it's set at 85-90. (which is much cooler than the 100+ outside!) Again, any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks again, and I look forward to playing again
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Author: SteveG_CT
Date: 2010-05-10 06:04
I've bought several clarinets at estate sales that have sat idle for several years (decades in most cases) before I've played them. I usually start with a thorough inspection and cleaning. First, check for cracks and any obvious problems. Next, make sure all of the keys function and nothing is binding and nothing is sluggish. Then grease up the tenon corks and make sure they seal well.
Finally, do a quick suction test (close all of the holes on either the upper or lower joint and plug one end with either your hand or a rubber stopper and try to draw a vacuum with you mouth on the other end). You should be able to draw a decent vacuum and the pads should be able to hold it for a few seconds at least.
Assuming everything checks out you can start playing, however you may want to play for short periods at a time at first to allow the wood to absorb moisture slowly and minimize the risk of cracking.
Post Edited (2010-05-10 06:05)
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Author: JJAlbrecht
Date: 2010-05-10 11:45
CHeck the instrument carefully or have a qualified technician do it for you. After that, se the slow break-in period, as if it were a new instrument, fresh from the factory.
Lack of humidity will be one of the big enemies to your instrument. Keep it humidified. Always make sure the instrument is warmed up slowly before playing. Never play a cold instrument, as this can be a prime cause of cracking the wood. Consider having the clarinet disassembled, oiled and overhauled as necessary.
Jeff
“Everyone discovers their own way of destroying themselves, and some people choose the clarinet.” Kalman Opperman, 1919-2010
"A drummer is a musician's best friend."
Post Edited (2010-05-10 11:46)
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Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2010-05-10 15:33
Look at the new horn break-in advice at the Tapley-Weir web site.
A key is to avoid having big temperature and/or moisture gradients through the wood. A warm and/or damp bore will try to expand and crack the outer surface of the instrument. Don't blow hot air into a cold instrument; let it warm up gradually. Only slowly put moisture into the bore by playing it just a little every day.
Calculations based upon estimated cross-grain strength of ebony show that a clarinet body is only marginally strong enough to withstand the sort of environments that can be easily conjured up. 60-degree F horn with 98-degree breath, for example. Interior humidity that goes with body temperature saturated air and a dry exterior, for another.
I think that the in-case humidifier is critical to help get enough moisture into the outer surface of the wood to match it up to the inside. I'd at least double your film can/sponge humidifier. I use two saturated 1x1x2 inch sponges and get only about 50% humidity in my case --below my technician's recommended 60% --which I can only accomplish by brushing water all over the double case lining.
Bob Phillips
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Author: richard1952
Date: 2010-05-11 22:39
Julia, If you are interested in playing in a Community Concert Band you may want to play with the Phoenix College Community Band. If interested let me know.
richardseaman@cox.net
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