 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: duder
Date: 2014-06-20 12:39
Hi
I thought I might repad my Symphony 1010 and was wondering what pads to use and what sizes I need to order
Thanks
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-20 15:37
If you're using cork or leather pads, then the sizes (taken from an Edgware Bb) should fit - but still measure the insides of the pad cups on your 1010 you're repadding to be sure you get all the correct sizes.
8.5mm x 1 (LH1 ring key)
9mm x 4 (Speaker key, throat G# key, LH2 ring key, C#/G# key)
10mm x 6 (trills and side keys, throat A key, cross Eb/Bb key)
10.5mm x 1 (RH rings - check the diameter first as it could be 11.5mm on a 1010)
11.5mm x 2 (cross B/F# key and Acton vent)
15mm x 1 (Ab/Eb key)
16.5mm x 3 (F/C, F#/C# and E/B keys)
To be on the safe side, order a couple more of each size.
If you plan on using skin pads, then add 1mm to each pad (apart from the 9mm speaker key pad if using a cork or leather pad in there).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-06-20 18:06)
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Author: duder
Date: 2014-06-20 16:44
Hi Chris
Thanks so much
Dare I ask what pads you recommend as i have searched this question and it quite the hot topic.
Iwas leaning towards roo pads or leather
Thanks again
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-20 17:30
Definitely try RooPads as they're not plastic coated like some regular leather pads so shouldn't get sticky. I've used RooPads on saxes and like them in that application, but still have loads of Premium Deluxe and CLG pads that I use on clarinet, although I prefer to cork pad clarinets almost throughout (even 1010s).
The measurements are with post-200000 serial number B&H clarinets in mind.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-06-20 17:36)
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-06-20 18:55
Funny that the last Pruefer I repad had bigger pads. 17, 15.5, 10, etc
+1 on roo pads, but they are not equal. Are you guys getting them from local supplier or from overseas?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-20 19:05
1010s have relatively small toneholes in relation to their bore size. But B&H would use the same pad cups as on their other clarinets (and other keywork pieces) so there's consistency with their pad sizes.
Aim to get as much venting on your 1010 as far too often they're undervented and can be stuffy. Use thin key corks instead of the massively thick ones B&H used originally and install the pads with shellac as opposed to Evo-Stik as B&H did as that way you can adjust them further on in time. B&H traditionally used Gordon Beeson leather pads on 1010s.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: duder
Date: 2014-06-21 14:32
Hi Chris,
Could you elucidate on the under venting concept.. Am I to understand that the pads need to lift further away from the tone holes to minimise airflow disruption?
When you use shellac does it stay flexible allowing you to move the pad? Where might I buy some?
By thin key corks do you mean the key will move down further towards the barell and the pads will lift further away from the vent holes?
Thanks for your your help hris
Nick
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-21 21:09
Just to say I've read your most recent post and will reply in full when I've got a bit more time - just got in after being out all day and I'm heading straight out again to a concert right now.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-06-21 21:25
Duder,
I see you're shown as being in Melbourne. I'm just up the hill in Emerald, and I do all my own repair/restoration work. If you'd care to email me off-net perhaps I could offer any assistance or information concerning the work you propose.
Tony F.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-23 13:51
I'd set up B&H clarinets in the following manner:
Top joint ventings:
Speaker key pad - 2.5mm max (domed cork pad)
Top trill key pad - 2mm (cork or leather pad)
Lower trill key/Bb key pad - 2.5mm max (cork or leather pad)
Side F# pad - 2.5mm max (cork pad)
Side Eb/Bb pad - 2mm (cork pad)
Throat A and G# - 2mm (cork or leather pad)
Cross/sliver Eb/Bb pad - 2mm (cork pad)
C#/G# pad - 2.5mm max (cork pad)
LH1 ring - 2mm to 2.2mm max (cork pad)
LH2 rings determined by RH main action venting (cork or leather pad)
Lower joint:
RH rings - 3mm (leather or cork pad)
(Acton vent will be determined by the RH ring key pad venting - cork pad)
Cross/sliver B/F# pad - 3mm (cork pad)
Ab/Eb pad - 3mm (leather)
F/C pad - 3mm (leather)
(F#/C# and E#B ventings will be determined by the venting of the F/C pad)
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: duder
Date: 2014-06-23 15:16
Hi Chris
I must thank you for your efforts.
Could you direct me to where i would procure these pads please
Thankyou
Nick
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-23 15:28
If you want to go with kangaroo skin pads, then I'd suggest you order them from MusicMedic - they will take PayPal payments there too.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-06-23 16:44
I don't know who the best supplier for cork pads is where you are - contact Richard Craig Woodwind in Adelaide to see if he can either supply you with them or if not, who can supply them to you.
If you haven't installed cork pads before, they do need preparing before use, so grind the faces down so they're completely smooth and blemish free on abrasive paper laid on glass or granite, then use three successively finer grades (start with 180 for the initial levelling, then 400 then finish with 1000). They can be installed with stick shellac (also sold by MusicMedic - I like the clear one) so they can be shifted around to seat them while the shellac is still molten, then once it sets hard like toffee, they'll remain seated (likewise with leather pads).
Use the finest cigarette papers as feeler gauges to check the pads seat all the way round with only slightly more pressure on the fronts compared to the backs (nearest the key barrel). Use very light finger pressure to close the pad against the tonehole while checking with a feeler gauge.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-06-23 16:45)
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