 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2016-12-20 00:54
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Beging here MichaelW mentioned that he is restoring a case. http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=447889&t=447782nin Does anyone have any experience with this, or know of any good articles on the web? The only thing that I have to contribute is the following:
1. "Simple Green" removes some kinds of paint and markers. It removes stuff that "Goo Gone" won't touch. I discovered this by accident, but it works great. I had to let it sit to work on the worst of it.
2. "ArmorAll Original Protectant" makes ABS cases look great.
3. "Liquid Nails Adhesive Clear 100% Silicone Adhesive" works great for re-gluing the fuzzy lining where it's coming off, or re-gluing the forms in the cases. It hardly smells at all, and isn't as messy as regular silicone caulking. It's very tacky, and it attached to the case, the plastic form, and both sides of the fuzzy fabric. A week later I removed everything because I changed my mind and decided to replace the fabric. It held everything tight, but I was able to get the stuff out. I wasn't able to get all of the adhesive off of the case shell, but you can cut it down easily with a sharp blade. If you don't degrease as well as I did, you might be able to pull it out.
4. "Elmers Disappearing Purple Spray Adhesive" DOES NOT WORK for attaching fabric to the plastic forms. It's watery and has almost no tack. I got it because it comes in a pump bottle. I don't have a proper place to work, and didn't want to have blasting aerosol glue getting all over the house. I'll opt for something more industrial next time.
5. Polishing old steel/nickel/etc hardware with white compound (by hand), and/or ultra fine sandpaper (1200+), and/or Flitz improves the look of things immensely, even if you can't get all the corrosion or pitting out.
My big QUESTION is what to use for fuzzy material. A case I got reeked of perfume. I tried everything (leaving it open, Fabreeze, alcohol, baking soda in water, vinegar) but in the end decided to replace the fabric. I went to three different fabric stores without finding anything suitable. Good heavy velvet has no stretch. The stretchy velvet I got was way too thin and offered no padding whatsoever. Suggestions for how to make a new form for inside the case are also welcome.
- Matthew Simington
Post Edited (2016-12-20 00:59)
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Author: MichaelW
Date: 2016-12-20 05:05
Hi Matthew, some time ago I had the same problem with "Dekosamt", a thin and cheap velvet, but in the end I used it, and it worked and looked quite fine. I just had to be careful avoiding an unsightly penetration of glue through the thin fabric, and I put, as usual with these old cases, a cotton wool padding underneath. For the new project I'll try a new store in our neighbour town. Perhaps I find something better. After the holidays I'll post here some photos of different internal formers. Season's greetings Michael
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Author: eac
Date: 2016-12-21 21:30
Have you looked at fleece for a lining material? It comes in several different weights and should be stretchy enough to line a case.
Liz Leckey
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Author: Fuzzy
Date: 2016-12-21 23:49
I'm very interested in which fabric to use as well. I'd like to build a case for a metal Conn instrument I have...but I'm worried about the various fabrics or glues reacting to the plating over time. (Right now, I simply use cotton batting sleeves for the instrument's body, and then place the instrument into an old scabbard case (leather)).
I plan on creating a wooden-form case, then using cotton batting material for padding, then finishing off with some type of velvet - or possibly even a thick felt (wool).
I'm curious as to which adhesives I might safely use to bind the cotton batting to the wood, and likewise the velvet or felt to the cotton batting.
My primary concerns are:
1. Finding adhesives which will bind these materials, yet not harm the nickle plating on the vintage Conn (circa 1898)
2. Choosing a material (either velvet or felt) which - even with modern manufacturing processes - will be safe to use for the nickle plating/metal.
Thanks,
Fuzzy
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Author: MichaelW
Date: 2016-12-29 23:37
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Some examples of internal framing:
1. E.J.Albert/J. Heyworth & Son, London, early 20th century: simple slat framing, cotton wool padding
2. H.N.White Silver King, 1928: Slat framing
3. Carl Kruspe double case, about 1925: Hand carved and machined, as usual with high quality instruments in Germany at least till the 1960ties
4. Püstophon, middle class, 1950ties: formed cardboard
5. Wilhelm Neidhardt double case for top quality instruments, GDR ca. 1960ties: Real leather case, but look at the interior!
I suppose modern cases mostly have formed styrofoam or elastic foam framing.
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Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2016-12-29 23:41
Avoid cardboard, which will have residual sulfur that will tarnish any finish.
Since this is a one-off project, and you want to protect an old instrument that has value to you, spend the small extra amount for museum-grade acid-free materials.
Ken Shaw
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