 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: wjk
Date: 2004-01-29 00:31
I've noticed that when I play a left handed C--the note is resistant to play. Sometimes, I find it difficult to get it to sound (such as coming from an Eb).
However, I have no such problem with the Right handed C fingering. Any ideas/ suggestions?
P.S. The instrument was just completely overhauled---this did not seem to help the problem. Thanks
Post Edited (2004-01-29 00:40)
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Author: Henry
Date: 2004-01-29 01:35
Sounds like you need a bit more cork on the LH C lever that operates the C key pad. Apparently, when you use the LH C key, the pad doesn't quite close. You don't have that problem with the RH C key because it is connected directly to the pad and RH pinkie pressure is enough to close the pad.
Henry
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2004-01-29 01:47
1. This can be due to less than ideal pad seating, which shows up more with the left hand because with the left hand there is less force applied to the closing of the pad, some of the finger's force being used up by the friction in the linkage between the 'lever' (left hand) and the 'key' (right hand).
2. It is also commonly due to poor design or set-up of the linkage itself, resulting in excessive friction in the linkage. Ideally, this linkage should have a rolling action at the point of contact, rather like gear cogs which have only one tooth being used on each cog. And the contact point in the linkage SHOULD (when the key is closed) lie in a plane containing the axes of the two hinges involved. Only with a design attending to these issues will friction be kept to a minimum. Few (if any!) manufacturers seem to have given this serious attention.
3. Another related cause is having a thick cork (or similar material) in the linkage, again introducing excessive friction. Modification of the key's geometry may be required to enable a thin silencing material to be used. IMHO the material should be firm, about 0.3 mm thick, and extremely tough, such as the synthetic leather Music Center (previously Pisoni) uses on their top sax pads. Some technicians use teflon or UHMWPE, but these, although having the advantage of very low friction, offer less silencing action.
In most cases '1' will definitely be a factor, made more pronounced by the contributions of 2 and 3.
Another possibility is sloppiness or binding in the F/C lever's pivot. Another quite common possibility is the F/C lever's spring binding against the key itself when the key is pressed down.
These problems are all common in professional instruments. It may take a better-than-run-of-the-mill technician to adequately deal with them.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2004-01-29 20:03
From your past posts I would guess that you didn't take your horn to "just any" technician for overhaul. If true, then it's a bit surprising that you're having this problem. If I were you I'd take it back and explain the problem...maybe some cork just fell off before the glue was dry. Recently I had a similar problem and I traced it to a loose post.
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2004-01-29 20:12
Even the best technicians can occasionally deliver an instrument with a problem. Perhaps your tech is more ham-handed than you, so that the problem only shows up when you are playing.
Whatever the problem might be, it's time to take it back. As BobD says, explain to the tech exactly what's wrong. It can be fixed, probably in a few minutes.
Regards,
John
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