 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: EaubeauHorn
Date: 2021-04-02 20:51
I have driven a couple hundred miles, paid a lot of money, and this still does not work. I put the oboe away for quite a long while after the last time I tried to get it fixed. Frustrated is putting it mildly.
The octave key, when depressed, should allow the octave vent to open (sorry i do not know proper terms for this, hopefully you can figure it out.) It does not open unless I manually open it. Then when I release the octave key, this vent should close, but it sits there and I have to close it manually. It sits there unless I move it manually, both directions. The shop said they put a "stronger spring" in it but....I cannot tell if this is a lubrication problem or a friction problem from something being bent in a way I cannot see.
What can I do? I am tired of taking it places and paying money and it comes back the same way it left. The rest of the oboe seems to be working fine. This thing that isn't working is on a rocker; the rocker has a screw that could be used to tighten or loosen. What should I try? It can't get worse since I can only play in one octave or the other based on where I have put that rocker manually and it stays there until I move it manually again.
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Author: Hotboy
Date: 2021-04-02 21:52
One cause may be the screw is in too tight, which makes the posts bind and the rocker arm is stuck. Try unscrewing the screw a bit and see if this alleviates the problem. If it does not, then one of the posts may be turned, which can also bind the rocker arm from moving.
Dane
Bay Area, California
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Author: Hotboy
Date: 2021-04-02 21:54
I forgot to mention that most standard "music store" repair guys have almost no clue what to do with an oboe other than replace pads and turn screws. If you want your problem solved, then you will need to send it to a qualified oboe repair tech. I recommend John Goebel at Forrest's in Berkeley, but there are many in the country.
Dane
Bay Area, California
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-04-02 22:34
As the lower 8ve key is binding in the way you've described it, chances are the key barrel is too tight between the pillars and that is best addressed by an oboe specialist.
Most cross mounted keys (perpendicular to the bore) are susceptible to binding with the expansion and contraction of the wood with humidity changes which affects them more than keys mounted parallel with the joints.
The rod screw is holding the key in place and loosening or tightening it won't make much difference as rod screws do have to be done up securely, neither left loose nor overtorqued.
Fitting a stronger spring isn't the course of action for binding keys - properly fitted keys and also making sure there's no burr or dirt in the key barrel as well as cleaning and straightening the rod screw to be sure it works with sufficient spring tension to make sure it will lift when the back 8ve is held down and will close when it's released.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: gohpeds
Date: 2021-04-03 23:00
Have you played this oboe recently?
Possibly the key barrel is binding between the posts. If it was Ok before, it is not because it is too long but possibly because the wood has dried and shrunk. Do not file the ends of the barrel. When the wood hydrates again it will be too short and float.
Best to put some orange peels or humidifier in the case. Warm the area with your hand before playing and oil and do not tighten the screw too much.
Season changes can do this, winter air is too dry and if you don't play this instrument regularly this can happen. Low spring tension does not do anything.
If it is a Marigaux the flat spring is tricky to place under the octave key and may be placed wrong. Other brands, Rigoutat, etc are much easier.
Hope this helps.
Gustavo.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-04-04 00:48
If it's binding between the pillars, then it will need to be dealt with to prevent that happening. Fraising back the key barrel by just enough to free up the key will indeed allow some lateral play, but that lateral play is necessary and has to be factored in to prevent it binding up again. Metal and wood (and metal and plastic) just don't mix.
All cross mounted keys on wooden oboes need some lateral play between their pillars to ensure they don't bind up. If that isn't done, then you'll have trouble. And once fraised back, the ends of the key barrels will also benefit from the inside edges being slightly countersunk.
On plastic instruments, all keys will need to have lateral play relative to the lengths of the key barrels to ensure they'll work when cold as plastic moves in all directions - long leys are the ones most affected by temperature changes and will need the most lateral play otherwise they'll bind up solid when played in cold conditions.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Cloneffew
Date: 2023-02-28 12:38
Hello
A sticky octave pad isn't particularly common, but it can cause issues with the sound quality and create muffled notes. Slide a small cloth or piece of paper between the pad and the neck. Gently press on the arm a few times to remove any dirt buildup on the pad. The octave key stretches over the top of the saxophone neck, and it can easily be bent out of shape if you squeeze the neck too hard. This is going to cause the octave key not to work properly.
A sticking octave key on a woodwind instrument, such as a saxophone or clarinet, can be a frustrating issue. Here are some steps you can take to try and fix it:
Check for visible obstructions: Inspect the octave key mechanism for any visible obstructions such as dirt, dust, or debris. If you see anything, carefully remove it with a soft cloth or small brush.
Check the octave key mechanism alignment: Look at the alignment of the octave key mechanism to make sure it's properly positioned. It should be centered over the neck of the instrument and not tilted to one side.
Check the pads: If the pads on the octave key are worn or damaged, they may need to be replaced. Check the condition of the pads and if necessary, take the instrument to a repair technician.
Hope so it will helps
Dinar Intel
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-02-28 18:02
That's all very well for saxes (which as we all know are essentially large bore oboes and have less in common with clarinets, contrary to popular belief), but this is an oboe forum.
Oboes generally have cork pads fitted in the 8ve key pad cups and they can become compressed onto the 8ve inserts when the instrument is in its case.
If the pads were left wet when the instrument is put back in its case, the lower vent pad will often stick to them as it's sprung to open with a light tension flat spring (and held closed with the stronger sprung back 8ve key).
If your oboe has fully autpmatic 8ves, then both vents can stick as both are lightly open sprung and released by the 8ve mechanism.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: EaubeauHorn
Date: 2023-03-02 20:25
I should have updated this; I took the screw out and wiped it off and it has worked perfectly ever since then. There was some kind of stuff on the actual screw shaft that apparently I wiped off. That was way back I fixed it, like more than a year ago.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-03-03 00:10
The oil had turned gummy.
Only use key oil made specifically for woodwind instruments or sewing machine oil as that doesn't contain resin that will gum things up.
DON'T use 3-in-1 oil as that's just for door hinges and has no place anywhere near any woodwind mechanisms. If your repairer uses it, then take your oboe and run away very fast.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: EaubeauHorn
Date: 2023-03-03 04:32
Thanks. I really have no idea what it was I wiped off, because I didn't "see" anything. The repair person is the only one within hundreds of miles and can adjust an instrument pretty well. If I were younger I would have dived into learning all the mechanical things about an oboe (I am a retired engineer) but just don't have the drive to do that now. If I went to a class I'd probably enjoy it, but in-person classes of that nature went away three years ago, pretty much.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-03-03 17:52
During a service or an overhaul, I use pipe cleaners dipped in solvent to clean out the insides of key barrels to be sure all the old and gully oil has been cleaned out, as well as cleaning and polishing the steels and using fresh oil during assembly.
Oboes use light key oil (same with flutes and piccolos) and a heavier oil in the countersunk ends of steels mounted on rod screws. Clarinets and saxes can use much heavier oil than oboes, flutes and piccolos.
Making sure the rod screws are dead straight as well as the key barrels is important so there's no resistance nor friction concentrated on specific spots as that'll only lead to wear or sluggish action.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: EaubeauHorn
Date: 2023-03-03 23:49
I had thought something was bent because it did hit the floor once. But -- as stated, all I did was wipe it off, and perhaps did not tighten it down as much as it was previously, but not complaining about how *I* fixed it.
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