 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-11 11:06
Hello.
This is my first post here. I have a Loree oboe which looks very old. The outside diameter is much lower than modern oboes. I understand that Loree serial numbers have two letters followed by two numbers. My oboe’s serial number is just 90. I don’t see any letters before the number.
Did Loree ever have serial numbers that were only digits?
I also read here or elsewhere that the letters are engraved shallower compared to the number and can get worn out.
Also, the number is not in the usual place. It is under the key in the lower front part of the lower joint and also on the bell under the keyword.
Any clue? I have also read about fake loree but they also had two letter I believe.
Thanks!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Hotboy
Date: 2019-03-11 21:39
This website doesn't mention anything serial numbers without letters being involved.
https://www.adams-music.com/instrumenten/serienummer/loree.asp?lid=1033
Dane
Bay Area, California
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-12 01:58
Thanks Dane. Yes I also could not find numbers without letters on that site.
I was wondering if someone has seen a Laree oboe that has only the two digits.
Post Edited (2019-03-12 02:44)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: mberkowski
Date: 2019-03-12 19:43
Consider posting a few photos of the instrument, closeup on the maker's mark and the serial number, and other that show detail of the keywork and bell. Some individuals on this list are very skilled at identifying instrument provenance from photos.
Michael
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: oboist2
Date: 2019-03-13 02:15
Another thing to try is to contact Loree directly and ask - they can take a week or so to get back to you, but generally will. I have had two isntruments that I have contacted them about, both were very old.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-18 22:00
Attachment: IMG_4042.jpeg (41k)
Attachment: IMG_4038.jpeg (23k)
Attachment: IMG_4035.jpeg (22k)
Attachment: IMG_4048.jpeg (54k)
Attachment: IMG_4044.jpeg (21k)
Thanks everyone for your responses. I took your advice and emailed Lorée directly and I did get a response. I was told that their oboes always had serial number with both letter and number (in the beginning, it was only one letter and one number). I am posting some pictures here. It is a thumb plate oboe. The lever that connects to the B flat key seems to be broken.
Post Edited (2019-03-18 22:06)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-19 20:34
Just wanted to update that I received a reply from Lorée (Anne de Gourdon) and she said that after looking at the photos, the oboe seems to be a real F Lorée!
So for me, it is at least worth restoring. She said it is from around 1930. It is a very special instrument with Lorée ring system, automatic model with an English thumb plate. Regarding identifications on the oboe I was concerned about: They have seen Lorée oboes with serial number in odd places like under the keys and also have seen F. Lorée Paris (without the typical A before Paris). However, the serial number without the letter is strange for them too!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-03-23 01:33
It's also got a double articulated Eb key, so you can slur from low Bb to Eb by keeping the RH Eb key held down when playing low Bb, then releasing the low Bb key for the Eb. Likewise wit a low B-D# slur. Hardly any makers have used that since and it's a shame as a low Bb-Eb slur means having to slide the RH pinky from the low C to Eb key when you release the low Bb key.
This oboe has the low B-C link, so you won't have to hold down the low C key when playing low B or Bb. I checked if this impacted on the fingering for altissimo Eb when using the low B key and on my oboe with the low B-C link, I could still get the altissimo Eb no problem with this fingering oxxB|oxxC. I'd normally use the G key instead of the low B key as that makes going to altissimo E or F easier (E - 8ve1 oxxG#|oxxEb and F - 8ve1 oxoG#|oxxEb). And as your ooe has the side Ab-Bb trill key (the upper of the two side keys for RH1), using that key with the altissimo F fingering will give high F# (8ve1 xoxG#|upper side key oxxEb)
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jeremyreeds
Date: 2019-03-24 17:04
One must also note the fact that this oboe has a double low C# (right and left little finger) ; it is automatic octaves, as mentioned somewhere above, with a double touch which if it is thumb plate as it was suggested, this would be mandatory to have. One more thing, unfortunately, the link to the low Bb (bell) from the low joint, is broken.
It is one of those instruments which I would like, not necessarily to play it but to TOUCH it.
Best regards,
Jeremias
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-03-24 20:28
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/10,557/IMG_4042.jpeg
There's no LH C# key on this oboe as that would be a long lever key running down the lower joint (as on Leon Goossens's Loree) - it has the LH F and a double articulated Eb key instead - note where the Eb pad cup is linked (you'll have to blow up the image).
The RH Eb key lifts the lever (located where the banana key is usually fitted) to release the Eb pad cup - the other end of that lever is actuated by the LH Eb key, so they both do the same thing instead of only the LH Eb key having the articulated feature as on most oboes.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jeremyreeds
Date: 2019-03-25 04:50
Yes, you are right Chris, now I see it.
I see the left hand F; I see the bridge that goes over the low C rod, between the low C# and RH Eb, which is soldered to RH Eb key/rod in order to release the Eb cup, and not to the C# key/rod, as would be the case if this oboe had a double C#, as I suggested before.
Well, I would still like to touch this oboe.
Jeremias
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-25 05:50
Thank you everyone for your input. I am still a beginner and haven't got used to even the standard oboe keys, so it will take me some time to digest all this information. Does anyone here have a similar oboe so that I can see how the link to the B flat key looks like? Hopefully I will repair or get it repaired sometime in the future. Thanks!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: oboist2
Date: 2019-03-26 00:47
I have a similar, but much older Loree dating from 1891 F99. Over the next few days I will take some photos and try and post them here. It may not be 100% the same but give you an idea. My oboe is only 58 cm long and I think is of the old high pitch - but I use a longer staple and wider reed to keep the pitch down. It cost me nearly $3000 AUD to have it reconditioned but I love playing it.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-03-26 16:02
The bell ley link is a piece of 3mm thick nickel silver with a notch filed out of it to link to the bell key - the free end (with the filed notch) will be flush or slightly short of the tenon shoulder depending on its relation to the link on the bell key. It's like the link on the bell key, but in reverse and without the table on it.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Saaz
Date: 2019-03-28 04:54
Thanks for the pictures. Could you take one more picture showing the bell key from the top (looking down straight onto the link).? You did include a side view of the bell area. Chris P gave a nice description of the link (which is broken in my oboe) but it will be very useful to look at a picture.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: oboist2
Date: 2019-03-28 07:55
Attachment: 20190328_144652.jpg (356k)
Here we are then - I hope this is what you mean. Incidentally, my oboe only has the serial number and letter on the bell. I still have the original case but it needs considerable repair, and the gator case I am using is a much more protecting case.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: oboist2
Date: 2019-03-28 09:36
Incidentally, on this oboe, and also on my Louis that is of similar fingering, my LH F was above the E flat, and that caused me a few issues so I got my repairer to change both instruments to the left had F is now below the LH E Flat.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
