Author: m1964
Date: 2019-03-16 09:46
Sharpi wrote:
> Thanks M1964 I appreciate your response and your kind words. I
> apologize that I made this very confusing. There are 3
> clarinets I’m speaking of here.
>
> 30’s Evette & Schaeffer
>
> 60’s (ish) German made Evette (I called it a B12 but it’s a
> Schreiber made Evette) at least I think it’s Schreiber made
> based on the serial number.
>
> Plastic Medini- this was the “show me you’re serious”
> purchase. Then I moved on and got the wooden E&S when he proved
> it was worth a substantial instrument.
>
> The E&S is the clarinet that had the loose bell ring. It was
> repadded by someone else last summer. This January it shrunk
> and I was told to make a home made humidifier box after picking
> it up from the same treatment. When I picked it up the bell
> ring (bottom) was still loose. I did as instructed. I had it
> looked at today, and they said it was fine, just shim the bell.
>
>
> The German Evette is the clarinet that I picked up as a
> project. I’m fairly impressed that I got as far as I did. I
> dropped that off today to be looked at by a pro. Curious to see
> how I did. My pad work was clean, and I know the top joint was
> air tight. On the bottom, one of the pads caused me trouble and
> the key isn’t very springy based on how the same key feels in
> the other clarinets.
> The vexing thing about this clarinet is the top joint. It seems
> to be long where it fits into the barrel, leaving the barrel
> approx 1/4 inch above the top of the joint. It’s not a cork
> issue, the tech who looked at it thought it was odd too. None
> of my barrels fit all the way down onto this joint. I should
> have taken a picture. I can’t find any info concerning this
> at all. (If this model had a longer top joint?)
>
> The third was the cheap plastic one that he started with. It
> lost a pad, and I was left without, (what I thought) a clarinet
> for him to use. He has an event coming up, and I wasn’t sure
> which one to fix. Took everything to the shop today and they
> recommended checking out the Evette (German B12).
>
> Even though I took everything to the shop to ask, I am still
> glad I posted here. I have learned so much from these pages,
> and I’ve learned more than I would have just visiting the
> shop. I will follow up on the barrel issue, in case anyone runs
> into this same thing. It’s not a swapping the barrel
> issue.... the top joint connection seems longer than an average
> clarinet. Where the top joint fits into the barrel, the
> recessed area. This is what lead me to post in the first place.
>
>
> Thanks again for your replies. They are very much appreciated.
> Though I don’t play, I am fascinated by the instrument.
>
Hi Sharpi,
Fixing a musical instrument can be "art", not just a "repair".
I consider myself an experienced player because I used to play professionally (long time ago...) and did some repairs on my and other students` instruments.
A few months ago I re-padded an A clarinet that I play in an amateur symphony orchestra. I also replaced key corks and lubricated screws. The clarinet felt fine until I started playing more in home, not only during rehearsals.
I realized that one of the keys (low F#) was not moving 100% freely. It was moving but just "not right ". Apparently I over-tightened screws holding the key when I re- assembled the lower joint. At the time it was fine but now the temperatures changed and the key started to stick but so slightly that it took me some time to realize the problem.
That is why I think you are doing well with repair of your son`s clarinets.
If the tenon on German Evette is too long it may be difficult to find proper barrel, especially one that would produce decent tuning.
If I were in your position, I would consider selling all 3 clarinets and getting a recent student model (Buffet or Yamaha, etc.) that does not need any work or maybe pads only which you can do yourself. At least, you know now how to test a clarinet for air tightness. 😉
I do believe that most likely either of the three clarinets can be brought to decent "playable" condition, the problem is that the definition of "playable" varies and the cost of the work may exceed the price of the instrument(s).
And you are absolutely right: this board is an excellent source of information, thanks to contributors like Paul, clarnibass, KDK and many others.
PS
when I re-pad a clarinet, I first take off all keys, then plug all holes with children clay, and then install one key+pad at a time and check for vacuum.
Sometimes I needed to install one key/pad at a time, with all other keys removed and holes plugged to find out which one was not holding air/vacuum.
Post Edited (2019-03-16 16:00)
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