Author: jasperbay
Date: 2010-03-29 20:02
Having repadded several dozen clarinets in my personal collection over the past several years, I thought I'd pass on some repadding tips, to go along with an excellant earlier post by Jack Kissinger (search for 'self restoration help' for his post).
As a heat source for melting the stick shellac flakes(from Ferree's Tools), or hot glue flakes cut from a hot glue stick, many folks are uncomfortable using an alcohol flame or butane lighter. I started out using a Radio Shack type electronics soldering iron, experimenting with models in the 20-75Watt range. I now use mostly the 75W iron, as the smaller ones just take too long on the larger cups. All old tin and lead should of course be sanded off the copper tip of the iron, and the tip can be ground/filed or hammered to fit the average cup. Don't rub the iron on the cup, as some finishes can be marred, just hold it under the cup (preferably, since heat flows up) just touching the center area of the cup, until the glue melts, and you can remove the old pad, add a little glue to replace what came out with the old pad, and install the new pad. An iron will work with the cups off or on the clarinet, unlike a flame heat source, and will not burn the pads. The job is a little easier with the cups 'off ' the horn, if you've got the tools and can keep the parts straight. With the cups still on the clarinet, just prop the pad open, heat, pluck out the old pad, insert the new pad with a little added glue (a hot glue wafer works better than stick shellac flakes here) reheat. After reassembling the horn, the iron works well for 'leveling' the pads, those that aren't contacting the tonehole evenly (reading glasses a must here). Sometimes the pad will level itself with a little heat and gentle pressure, sometimes you'll have to insert a thin shim from an old reed, and press a little harder with the iron to get the pad to shift so it makes even contact.
On pads, both Dave Spiegenthal and I prefer leather pads over the 'onion skin' variety, both for ease of installation and longevity. Leather pads are avilable in tan and white from Ferree's. I like the manly tan pads, Dave likes the white ![[rotate]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smiley25.gif) . Ferree's sells them as 'alto clarinet' pads, Zheng Hao calls them 'bassoon pads'. I've also had good luck with every type of synthetic pad I've tried, so try them out if you've a mind to. Also, bear in mind that leather pads are measured differently from 'onion skin', or more accurately 'sausage skin' pads. Measure the outside of the cup, in MM's, with a dial or digital caliper, and order that size for 'sausage skin' pads since they have a 'stepped' design. Subtract one mm for a leather pad, since it goes entirely inside the cup, only bulging out a little later when it seats in. As far as wether to go with stick shellac like the old timers, or hot glue, I've not noticed much difference. Stick shellac is easier to clean up if some oozes out (you used too much, or pressed the pad too hard) but hot glue adheres better. Hot glue may suffer if you leave your horn in the trunk on a Tuscon afternoon, so I use 'high temp' sticks from JoAnn's Fabrics for a little added protection. I've not had any trouble with hot glue, but I live in the NW, and don't leave my grenadilla clarinets in the trunk!
Go forth and prosper, Clark
Clark G. Sherwood
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The Clarinet BBoard
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