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Klarinet Archive - Posting 000805.txt from 1997/09

From: Roger Garrett <>
Subj: Re: warped!
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 13:05:01 -0400

On Tue, 16 Sep 1997 wrote:

> I was taught to do all the sanding on *wet* reeds, because you are really
> concerned that they be flat during playing, i. e., while wet. If they are
> slightly warped when dry, but flatten when wetted, that's OK.
> So, my view is that if you do the sanding dry, the reed might very well warp
> when wetted, but you *should* sand wet rather than give up sanding.

Sanding wet does not resolve the problem....also.....not much wood comes
off because of the gumming of the paper. I have sanded "dry" for 15 years
without much deviation once it is wetted....if any.

> Also, during the sanding, flattening, drying process, the reeds should be
> dried bark side *down* with the flat area open to the air (rather than with
> the flat side against glass). My experience is that this process produces
> extremely stable, non-warping reeds. Any reed that has once played well and
> seems to "have a bad day" can generally be corrected by a few strokes on well
> used 600 grit papaer, *while wet*.

I have found that drying upside down as described causes greater warping
problems than the opposite. If a reed is going to warp, it will warp
either way. Warping is reduced by sanding dry, wetting and drying on
glass (bark up) over a period of days. The process I described in an
earlier post will keep warping from reoccuring.

If a reed rocks on the glass when it is wet, the 600 grit does not take
off enough wood to "unwarp" the reed. Draw two or three pencial lines
across the back (side to side) from the bark cut toward the butt end.
Then will see the line erase...usually center first and then
towards the outside. Using 600 just uses more paper and slows the
process. However...600 is great for the final "polish"....I even use the
back side of the sandpaper for a high get that seal to the

When all is said and whatever works!

Roger Garrett

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