Klarinet Archive - Posting 000301.txt from 2009/02

From: clarni bass <clarnibass@-----.com>
Subj: RE: [kl] Cork Repair & Wax
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 06:56:27 -0500

Interesting ideas. Here are some things about the paraffin idea and using heat on the cork that I and several people thought about.

>> Clean all the cork grease off of the
>> cork first using a damp soft rag.

Water is pretty lousy at removing oily stuff (which cork grease is) so after doing this most will probably still be there. Instead you'd need something that is good for this, unless it doesn't matter that some is left, and a dry paper towl fine in that case also.

>> heat up a pad spatula using a heat source until it is hot,
>> but not so hot you can not hold it. Then apply the smaller
>> end around the cork with just a light pressure. You will see
>> steam coming up as the water evaporates. Do this all the way
>> around the cork and now you will find the cork has opened up
>> the grain and swollen up.

Heating the cork, whether with a pad spetula or another method, and either with water or cork grease or without them, is a usual band-aid that many players use. It is more usual for sax neck corks because heating is easier on the metal body, but possible some ways with clarinets too (as in the example). You'd have to do it occasionally since it only lasts a while, and usually it will work a few times and gradually stop working.

>> This will have two benefits. First, the cork will
>> be thicker and will be tighter in the socket.

Re "the cork will be thicker" see possible problems above.

>> Second, the wax will impregnate the cork...

From what I understand: Cork has a closed cell structure (except the holes). If it didn't, it was pretty much impossible to use it for pads. So I don't think wax will penetrate the cork. It would sit on the surface the same as cork grease. The bad types of cork grease can ruin the cork or the glue by penetrating through the holes, or ruining the structure itself, or penetrating behind the edges (i.e. not through the cells).

>> ...and also add some thickness.

This could create a problem. Parafin wax is pretty grippy so it might feel good when assembling but no real way to tell whether it seals. Of course this is possible with regular cork and cork grease, but a lot more likely with the parafin wax, after the cork compresses again (which it will, relatively fast if it was expanded with heat).

>> The other benefit of the wax is that it helps to lubricate
>> the cork when assembling the instrument, but more importantly,
>> it makes a better seal against any air leaking out from the
>> socket and tenon.

Probably not as good as good cork grease, on a still resiliant cork, with a firm fit, which is excellent in all regards that the wax isn't. The cork greases that I found are excellet are the natural one from the Doctor and the synthetic cork grease from Alisyn.

>> Most of the custom makers that I know use this
>> wax on a regular basis and it really does work.
>> Morrie Backun is one that uses this even on new
>> corks when he does overhauls.

What custom makers? I never saw this type of tenon cork on any clarinets by a "custom" maker that I've seen. One of them actually gives a good cork grease (the one from the Dcotor) with their instruments.

Also, what does "custom" makers mean anyway? I've seen "regular" makers (i.e. the big companies) with ideas, design, build, etc. that was considerably better on SOME clarinets by the "custom" makers.

Also, and this is absolutely NOT specific to any one person, not the one you mentioned and not anyone else: It is not a good idea to follow someone's advice JUST because of their name/reputation. It is ALWAYS better to analyze and try the IDEAS yourself based on facts, logice, etc.

On the other hand... it's just cork :-)

> From: X-BakerBotts-MailScanner-tom.henson@-----.com
> Subj: [kl] Cork Repair & Wax
> Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:03:33 -0500

> Hello all,

> Equipment is often discussed when in need of how to repair something,
> like the recent thread on a good fix for a cork that is a little loose.
> While Teflon tape is a good and fast repair, something that has not been
> mentioned that I feel is also a more permanent fix until a new cork can
> be put on is this.
>
> Clean all the cork grease off of the cork first using a damp soft rag.
> Dampen the cork with some water using the same rag, Q-tips, or just with
> your mouth. Now, while the cork is still wet, heat up a pad spatula
> using a heat source until it is hot, but not so hot you can not hold it.
> Then apply the smaller end around the cork with just a light pressure.
> You will see steam coming up as the water evaporates. Do this all the
> way around the cork and now you will find the cork has opened up the
> grain and swollen up. Now, with the grain open, use the same pad spatula
> and heat it up again. Rub the hot spatula on a block of paraffin wax and
> then apply the wax onto the cork while still in a liquid state. Do this
> all the way around the cork. It does not take a lot to work this into
> the cork, so use sparingly. Then wipe off the excess with your fingers
> or the same damp rag.
>
> This will have two benefits. First, the cork will be thicker and will be
> tighter in the socket. Second, the wax will impregnate the cork and also
> add some thickness. The other benefit of the wax is that it helps to
> lubricate the cork when assembling the instrument, but more importantly,
> it makes a better seal against any air leaking out from the socket and
> tenon. Most of the custom makers that I know use this wax on a regular
> basis and it really does work. Morrie Backun is one that uses this even
> on new corks when he does overhauls.
>
> Tom Henson

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