Klarinet Archive - Posting 000155.txt from 2006/02

From: "Karl Krelove" <karlkrelove@-----.net>
Subj: RE: [kl] Eb barrel?
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 09:40:11 -0500

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rommel John Miller [mailto:rjmiller@-----.net]

Without really disagreeing with you,
>
> Oh no, I would NEVER recommend super glue or any type of
> glue, other than a properly formulated bonding agent for
> wood. And of course proper clamping, banding, or pinning,
> although I have never seen how the latter works.

I think the end of the pin is threaded and so is the end of hole into which
the pin is inserted. Pins in any case aren't meant to pull the crack closed.
The repairman normally tries to get it to close naturally by re-humidifying
the wood and then installs the pin to prevent any further expansion and keep
the crack from continuing. He/she then uses filler (these days made from
powdered wood in a resin binder - similar I think to what Greenlines are
made of -- years ago I think they used shellac) to cover any surface
evidence of the crack or the pins.

>
> I still am a hobby bookbinder and I have my qualms with
> Poly-vinyl acetate being no more than souped-up Elmers glue,
> but back in the day, when hooves and other animal parts were
> used to make glues, they WERE known to WORK, that is to BIND,
> LAST, and do the JOB they were intended to do.
>

True. Of course, the problem in many instrument-related applications is that
the new adhesives sometimes *hold too well* and make future repairs much
more difficult. One of the reasons they use hide glue on string instruments
is that, if necessary, the front or back can be removed with gentle pressure
(by a skilled technician) when necessary. Same for pad cements - the only
thing worse than a pad that falls out is one that can't be gotten out
cleanly when it has finally worn out or torn. Shellac is strong enough to
hold under normal circumstances (if the right amount has been used) and
melts at a low enough temperature to make the pad easily removable.

Karl

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