Klarinet Archive - Posting 000306.txt from 2006/01
From: "PDKuz _" <PDKmusman4578@-----.com> Subj: Re: [kl] cork grease Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 22:54:58 -0500
Deterioration of cork DOES have to do with cork
grease!
Most commercial cork grease sold today contains a
petroleum base which is harmful to cork and also the
glue that holds the cork in place. Cork is
a natural substance which needs to breath. Check
out the explanation found at doctorsprod.com.
I have used the Doctor's cork grease for sometime
now and have found it to be the best cork grease
available. On clarinets that have a buildup of old
cork grease, I use GooGone (citrus based cleaner)
to first clean the cork. This will strip off all the old
gunk and 'refresh' the cork. Even corks that I though
would need re-placing were revitalized! Cork will
last a long time. I have cork pads in the upper joints
of my clarinets. The first one to get cork pads
was my original Buffet, bought when I was a senior in
high school in the early 70s. I had the cork pad over
haul done in the early 80s and have not had to have
one of them replaced yet! The same can be true of
your tenon corks if you take care of them properly.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lelia Loban<mailto:lelialoban@-----.net>
To: klarinet@-----.org>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: [kl] cork grease
I wrote,
>Most of the cork damage I've seen looked as
>if it came from deterioration of the cork
>itself. I've never thought the cork grease
>had anything to do with the deterioration. I've
>never seen an intact cork simply come unglued.
Bill Hausmann wrote,
>>I have seen it numerous times. The corks were
>>completely saturated with grease, but otherwise
>>intact.
Since Bill Hausmann has probably repaired more clarinets than I've seen
in
my lifetime, I defer to his observation. However, since acetone is the
only effective solvent I've found for contact cement, I do wonder
whether
the glue let grease under it because it was damaged (cracked from the
cork
pulling back and forth over the years), or the wrong kind of glue, or
not
applied properly.
Ormondtoby Montoya wrote,
>>>I would assume that, in some cases, the
>>>problem is related to putting the instrument
>>>away without wiping the tenons. Basic
>>>sanitation. That is, allowing the 'guck' to sit
>>>on the tenons for days/weeks/months and
>>>thereby allowing it to soak really deep into
>>>every pore and crevice.
That's got to be bad for the corks, whether or not it deteriorates the
glue. Leaving the tenons goopy also makes a mess of the case lining,
especially if the player neglects cleanliness in other ways, such as
failing to swab out. Just add water and -- eeeeewwww. After re-lining
several cases with stinky, black, rotted fabric where the tenons rested,
I'm becoming such a fussbudget that I keep a plastic bag of little
strips
of paper towel in my ditty bag, to wipe down the corks. I also leave
and
occasionally change strips of paper towel under each tenon in the case,
to
protect the lining from grease stains.
Forest Aten wrote,
>I attribute the cork failure more to improper
>(unclean surfaces) work done at the time the
>cork was glued to the surface of the tenon.
Over-greased corks probably contribute to that problem. If the old cork
is
saturated with grease, then it's hard to remove the cork and clean the
tenon for a new one without leaving some of the old grease behind.
Also,
I've made the mistake of applying contact cement too thickly (because an
old tube was starting to dry out) or getting impatient and not letting
it
dry on both cork and tenon before pressing them together. It's tempting
to
leave the cement moist in order to be able to shift the cork if the
placement isn't perfect, but shifting the placement weakens the contact.
Lelia Loban
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