Klarinet Archive - Posting 000682.txt from 2003/04

From: Bill Hausmann <bhausmann1@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [kl] Followup to the frozen barrel non-saga
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 00:40:18 -0400

At 10:07 PM 4/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>The thing of it is...I'm NOT 100% sure it's the barrel. I can feel
>resistance, yes, but I'm starting to wonder whether it might not be the
>tenon itself. As I think I said...I can see why high-end clarinets cost
>various body parts while the midprice or "intermediate" horns may sound
>fine but things can go wrong. My old Selmer had metal rings on the upper
>joint tenons that probably prevented exactly what I ran into last
>night. I kept that instrument in the main room of apartment over a
>barbecue restaurant--the summer heat plus the ovens that never cooled down
>made it excrutiating to be in there. But the instrument never had a problem.
>
>I suppose my options are limited to four. One is to get a "composite"
>barrel such as the AccuBore and see how the instrument responds. Two is
>to sand down the barrel...somehow. I'm a klutz however, so sandpaper
>doesn't do much for me; and I don't have access to a lathe or know how to
>use one. Three is to take the horn to a repairman and have the tenon
>sanded and recorked. The nearest competent repairmen I know of are in New
>York, and it's likely to be more than I can afford to spend right now (the
>instrument was used from Musiqueworld via Ebay, so we're not exactly
>talking King's Ransom here). Four is to keep the joint well-greased, dry
>the instrument after I use it, and keep it in its case to avoid the worst
>of the atmospheric mess the Jersey Shore endures--a dessicant pack or two
>mightn't be such a bad idea either.

We are dealing with the removal of a VERY small bit of wood here. It
should be removed from the tenon, mostly because it is easier to get
at. By feel, you should be able to determine whether the wood-to-wood
binding is occurring on the part ABOVE or BELOW the cork. That will tell
you where to sand. Using very fine sandpaper on the very hard wood, it
will be quite easy to take only very tiny bits and then test the fit. You
certainly do not want to get it TOO loose and cause wobbles, but that is
unlikely anyway. It is also entirely possible that the composite or
Accu-Bore barrel will ALSO fit tight!

If you decide to blow the BIG bucks and have a professional do it, it
should not cost more than $25 even if they are crooks! Even brand new
R-13's often need adjustment like this when they come from the factory,
after they acclimate to a new locale. In fact, it is probably MORE common
with expensive instruments, since they are made with a closer fit in the
first place.

Keeping the joint well-greased in the meantime will help a LITTLE, but it
is much more effective on CORK than wood.

Bill Hausmann

If you have to mic a saxophone, the rest of the band is TOO LOUD!

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