Klarinet Archive - Posting 000537.txt from 2002/07

From: CBA <clarinet10001@-----.com>
Subj: Re: [kl] Buying An Instrument
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 02:19:11 -0400

EXCUSE ME?!?!?!?!

Luby.

This is *MY* post from March 9, 2002 that is now listed in the
clarinet archives.

The link is here...

http://www.woodwind.org/Databases/Logs/2002/03/000136.txt

It is NOT your right to plagiarize anyone's words verbatim and
repost it as your own without acknowledgment of who the original
author was. You do NOT have this perspective to submit, as it is
MY perspective, and I really resent having this posted as *your*
words, since I have not seen anything from your posts that would
suggest you do post more than one liner questions that can be
answered easily by looking in the archives for the list.
Obviously you CAN look in the Klarinet archives, because that is
where this is saved now.

I read the first line and knew it was a post from me and not
you.

I am really out of sorts with this situation. Do NOT contact me
privately. You will get more than an earful if you do.

Mark C. - is there a policy on the Klarinet list for
plagiarizing other's posts?

Kelly Abraham
Woodwinds - New York City
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
--- "Apostle Luby D. Jackson" <mus_ldj@-----.com> wrote:
>
> I think there is a few things people have overlooked
> in this grand scheme of searching for an
> instrument...how much money can be spent, and
> preparation for the search of the right instrument.
>
> Like with computers or cars, you can always get a
> "better" model, even in the same brand name, if you so
> desire. Bells and whistles allow companies to nickel
> and dime you right out the roof with a price of an
> instrument.
>
> Some of these bells and whistles are as simple as
> silver plating to the keys and an extra alternate key
> for Ab/Eb on the left side. Others are less cosmetic,
> such as hand tooled keys, denser wood from older
> trees, wood seasoned longer than 1 year, wood type
> itself, raised toneholes, undercutting to toneholes,
> thickness of the wall if the instrument, etc... Some
> of these bells and whistles, like silver plated keys,
> are $100 or so in addition to the instrument. Some of
> the model upgrades, such as wood aging or type, will
> add as much as $1500 on a $1500 instrument, doubling
> the cost for a very similar clarinet.
>
> I have recently purchased a handmade Guy Chadash "A"
> clarinet, and my "Bb" will be arriving in July. I am
> convinced my playing is vastly better, and I have been
> told so by different musician friends, when asked if
> they liked the new instrument up to the old one. Rossi
> handmade instruments are great. So are Peter Eaton
> instruments. So are Steve Fox handmade instruments.
> All of these makers make IMPECCABLE instruments,
> because THEY are their own quality control. They make
> hundreds of instruments, not hundreds of thousands of
> instruments. This would be the outer limits of buying,
> and unless you are planning on making money from
> playing an instrument, a handmade instrument could be
> a bad (and costly) idea when you are not going to use
> it to its potential. Some handmade clarinets top $5000
> a piece. Think Porsche vs. Honda. Sure the Porsche is
> great. Do you live near the Autobaun where you can
> really drive it?
>
> You could go on forever with the differences in makes
> and models until you are blue in the face. I have a
> checklist I give my students when they are looking for
> an instrument. Here it is...
>
> 1. What is the HIGHEST amount you can pay for an
> instrument (including tax, shipping, etc.) This is the
> FOREMOST question I ask, since there is no reason to
> look at a new $3000 instrument if you have a budget of
> $1000. Don't drive the Porsche before the Honda if you
> can't afford the Porsche. All it does is screw up your
> idea of what is acceptable at your price level.
>
> 2. Distinguish what you are using the instrument for.
> If you are a junior high student who has played one
> year, and is not sure how long they are going to play
> (i.e. high school, college, end of junior high) then
> getting the latest, greatest instrument would seem
> silly, unless your parents (or you) have money to
> burn. If this is the situation, ask your parents (or
> yourself) to adopt ME.
>
> 3. In the scope of figuring out whether you are
> playing for a while, and how much money for an
> instrument, decide whether a new instrument is right
> for you. A good condition used instrument might be the
> trick if money is tight or you might only play the
> instrument for a few years. You can always get another
> instrument later if you decide to go for the long
> haul. Do be sure to check out an instrument thoroughly
> before buying a used instrument, and make sure if it
> is not what you want, that you have a return policy of
> at least 3 days to try a used instrument. Also, ask if
> there is a restocking fee if you return it. Some
> less-than-reputable stores and pawn shops will charge
> you a 30%-40% restocking fee on a returned item, or
> not take back the item because they have a sign saying
> NO RETURNS or STORE CREDIT ONLY. Don't buy from those
> places.
>
> 4. What features do you ABSOLUTELY have to have, and
> what features are superfluous. (Gold plated keys are
> NOT usually a necessity, unless you have a topical
> allergy to silver, and then it IS a necessity.)
>
> 5. Have someone you trust who is knowledgeable about
> the instrument who can go with you to tell you 1. if
> it sounds good, 2. if it feels good to them, and 3. to
> be devil's advocate if you get the "it's so pretty"
> bug biting you and you need someone to slap you before
> buying an instrument not right for you. I accompany my
> students to try instruments when they go. Not one of
> my students has picked an instrument that another of
> my students have liked. I have a varied studio of
> students' instruments. I make sure I am looking the
> other way when they play the different instruments to
> keep myself unbiased.
>
> 6. If you are buying a new instrument, go to a
> reputable local shop to buy the instrument, or if a
> local one is not available, use a reputable mail order
> store that will let you try instruments on trial
> without having obligation to buy one you don't want.
> Depending on where you are depends on where to go to.
> If mail order stores are the way you are going to go,
> I suggest Woodwind and Brasswind, International Music
> Suppliers, Muncy winds, and Weiner Music. I will
> ALWAYS buy from a local shop, even if it is $200 more
> out of a $2000 instrument, but 10% more is my limit on
> local loyalty. Remember, if you can buy from a store
> locally, you keep them in business, and can go back to
> them with minor repairs and for accessories. If they
> are overpriced, by all means go to mail order. I am
> lucky that I (and my students) have access to a local
> branch of Woodwind and Brasswind in NYC and before
> they opened the NYC store, there was Weiner Music in
> Long Island NY to send them to locally. Lisa at
> International Music Suppliers is WAY COOL when I
> purchased my clarinet case, and tried instruments out,
> and Muncy Winds have been great when I have made
> purchases from them also. I have referred people to
> ALL of these stores, and they have all come back and
> said how wonderful the experience was.
>
> 6. Make sure you try out AT LEAST 3 different types of
> mouthpieces on each instrument you try (rule of thumb
> would be to try out instruments using Vandoren
> mouthpieces, since they will be the most accessible.)
> If using Vandoren mouthpieces, try a B45 or B45 DOT
> for the first type, a 5RV or 5RV LYRE for the second
> type, and an M13, M13 LYRE, or an M15 for the third
> type of mouthpiece. You won't necessarily buy a
> Vandoren mouthpiece at that time. Find the instrument,
> then try mouthpieces of all types and brands to find
> the right one for you. These suggestions for
> mouthpiece diversity will keep you from discrediting a
> good instrument that you tried out with an
> incompatible mouthpiece.
>
> 7. This is the most important one of all. when you
> decide on a store to go to, set up a time to come in
> to the store when you can try the most instruments of
> greatest brand and model selection, and with the
> different mouthpieces. This will allow the store to
> look at the instruments and check for leaks and
> manufacturer errors before you try the instruments,
> PLUS have the diverse set of mouthpieces to try on the
> instruments. DON'T try out instruments without warning
> the store ahead of time (at least a few days.) You
> will probably get a less satisfactory situation, since
> you gave them no time to prepare instruments and set
> aside mouthpieces to try out.
>
> Bottom line is you have to have an idea of parameters
> of your search before you can start looking. You
> should be able to find new professional models of
> Selmers, Yamahas, Leblancs, Patricolas, and Buffets
> from $1500 to $3500. You should be able to find used
> instruments of the same brands for $800-$2000,
> depending on condition, model, and vintage. There is
> lots to choose from, and, like a car or a computer, it
> should taske you more than an hour on an afternoon
> that you try out instruments on a whim. This will be
> your musical VEHICLE for years to come. Don't buy the
> lemon in haste because it is pretty, or because
> someone told you that "($&*&^*&#) brand is the best.
> Everyone knows that!"
>
> Sorry for the long post...

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