Klarinet Archive - Posting 000071.txt from 2001/10

From: "CLARK FOBES " <reedman@-----.com>
Subj: [kl] Middle tenon joint wobbling
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:27:06 -0400

This problem does occur on some Prestige intruments, but it also occurs on
standard R-13 and older clarinets that have wear due to playing or just from
sloppy technicians over sanding new tenon corks.(The latter is the most
likely cause)

Allowing this problem to dictate one's choice of instruments is simply
ridiculous.

There are several solutions to this problem and one is relatively easy. A
lot of "good" repair people don't seem to realize that the cork on a tenon
(NOT TENDON!!!!!) is a gasket and is not meant to support the joint from
lateral movement. Very often the play is not only from the end of the tenon,
but form the "top" nearest the shoulder where the tenon meets the body.

To correctly fit the joint the old cork must be removed. When the cork is
off it soon becomes apparent how loose or tight the fit of the tenon in the
socket really is. If there is no constriction of the joint at all as the
sections come together, then -using a paper clip- apply a thin layer of
super glue evenly around the "top" of the tenon joint. (Be certain that you
have cleaned the tenon thouroughly with alcohol and let it dry. In the case
of metal rings, sand the ring very lightly with 400 sand paper). Continue
this process until the joints "grab" as they are sent home. Be careful not
to apply any glue to the "shoulder" as this will keep the joints from coming
together completely). Once a good snug fit is achieved without binding,
perform the same process on the lower section of the tenon joint. (Be
careful not to allow glue to drip over to the end grain section as this will
also keep the joints from coming together completely.) You will be able to
tell when there are enough layers - there will be no lateral motion at all.
I prefer to make both fittings a little tighter than the final fit. When you
replace the cork and sand it either on a lathe or a properly fitted drill
press you should lightly touch the glued areas with a doubled over thin
strip of 600 sand paper to polish and smooth the surface of the glue.

Done properly , this makes a very non-invasive and semi-permanent fix. The
glue does not adhere as well to the metal rings as to wood and more may need
to be applied after about a year. This correction can, of course, be applied
to the barrel or bell tenon as well.

The more permanent fix is to remove the tenon cap or ring and replace it
with a larger one. This of course requires somebody who knows how to use a
lathe properly. It is not a fix that I recommend and have only done it on a
few clarinets that were extremely worn.

Clark W Fobes

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