Klarinet Archive - Posting 000005.txt from 2001/03

From: rgarrett@-----.edu
Subj: Re: [kl] Warped reeds
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 08:08:41 -0500

At 07:31 AM 03/01/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>For me, a reed that sounds good but then warps is rarely "resurrected" by
>sandpapering. What I've found is that if I sandpaper the minimum amount
>necessary to correct the warpage, the reed becomes tinny and shrill, and I
>cannot usually fix it with the usual adjustments (trimmer, narrowing the
>sides, reed rush, etc). The reason I say I may be doing this incorrectly is
>that it seems to work for other people; the conclusion that there is some
>factor different here is logical. Perhaps it's the climate, perhaps it's the
>saliva diferences (how, I couldn't say), perhaps it's the sanding technique.

My experience has been very different. However, I use Vandoren V12 4s -
chosen because of the thick blank. I prefer to use the thicker blank reed
and then have some room to work with in sanding. I haven't had a great
deal of luck using "regular" Vandorens - (blue box) in this manner -
because sanding reduces the thickness of the reed too much. You may have
tried the test with a thin cut reed and experienced your results.

Or......your experiences may just be different than mine.

My point was that absolutes (eg. NEVER store on glass) seem illogical if
there are people successfully storing on glass. Then it becomes a matter
of finding out why it works for some and not others.

>I HAVE tested it personally. My assumption was not that it works, but that
>it is due to the reed pore situation as opposed to some other factor that
>has not been mentioned here. I wasn't too clear on this, sorry.

No problem......I think I understand your post more clearly now.

> >Please explain how removing material prior to warping with a knife
> doesn't destroy the sound but removing material prior to warping with
> sandpaper does.......
>
>Again, I don't know the technical logistics of it, but all I can say is
>that it seems to work.

Back to your assertion you may be sanding incorrectly - the above statement
may support your conclusion. Try sanding less and making pencil marks
across the back (shoulder to butt only) and only sand with 320 grit or
finer until the marks leave evenly. Polish with 600 and newsprint and see
what happens. Again - if the reed is a thin cut, your results may be the
same as you have experienced. But - at least you will know for sure - less
assuming!

> >I simply don't understand what you have posted here. It would be
> helpful if you explained in greater detail.
>
>The problem is that I don't understand it in much greater technical
>detail. All I can say without basically copying Mr. guy's entire book
>onto the list is that it seems to work.

Hmmmmmm..............ok. This may be why I didn't understand what you were
saying - you apparently didn't either!

> >Or perhaps misrepresented his meaning........
>
>An excellent point. I've already proven my incompetence at representing my
>OWN meaning :)

Well, just when I think I've figured a reed out and make one more cut and
ruin it - I realize there are no absolutes when it comes to infinite
variables with an infinitely variable product made from cane. My goal is
to make sure we don't dismiss one technique that works for some just
because it doesn't work for others.

Will........your humor brightened my day. Thanks for posting!

Best wishes,
Roger Garrett

Roger Garrett
Clarinet Professor
Director, Symphonic Winds
Advisor, IWU Recording Services
Illinois Wesleyan University
School of Music
Bloomington, IL 61702-2900
Phone: (309) 556-3268
Fax: (309) 556-3121

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