Klarinet Archive - Posting 000902.txt from 2001/01

From: "Dee D. Hays" <deehays@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [kl] Re: Boosey & Hawkes wood clarinet
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:18:24 -0500

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ginger Calkins" <gicalkin@-----.net>
Subject: Re: [kl] Re: Boosey & Hawkes wood clarinet

> [snip]
> The horn as it stands is barely playable; I argued with the technician to
> replace the one pad that was missing entirely [the first pad on the lower
> register]. However something else is out of whack as I can NOT play a "b"
above
> the break [i.e. all fingers down] without starting out on some other note
and
> working to it, either up or down. I'm assuming it is a quirk of the horn.
The
> upper ocataves sound very thin and pinched, but I think it is due to the
nasty
> way I've had to adjust my embouchure [sp! yikes, i know there should be a
few
> more letters in there. sorry!] to get any sound at all, rather than an
inherent
> defect in the instrument.
>

If any pads are leaking anywhere, this "B" is almost impossible to play.
With one pad missing, I'm surprised that you can even succeed sneaking down
on it! The upper octave notes are especially affected by leaking pads and
having to adapt your embouchure (and you did spell it correctly) is not
going to help the sound. So it's not a "quirk" of the horn but a symptom
that it needs some new pads. Any instrument in this condition would have
the same problem.

> The lower registers [which play with no problems....maybe the octave key
needs
> adjustment?] have a pleasant enough dark resonation, so I think I would
like
> the little beasty if it had pads properly done.
>

It is often possible to get a good resonant sound in the lower register even
when pads leak. The low register is very forgiving of all kinds of things
from leaks to incorrect technique. If problems exist, they often won't be
noticeable until you move into the upper registers.

> I don't know who else I could take it to here in town; I know there are
other
> instrument sales shops, but it seems this guy is the only one listed under
> instrument repair.Plus, I have an inherent mistrust of taking something to
> "just a name in a book" without some sort of information or
recommendation.
> Guess that's why advertising works, right?

If all it needs is a basic repad, any tech should be able to do a competent
job. It wouldn't hurt to call some of these other instrument shops as they
may have an in-house repair tech even though not listed that way in the
yellow pages. Try calling around to some of the local schools and talk to
the band directors, see if they have any particular recommendations.

>
> All things considered, it's sounding more like my best bet might be to
send it
> in to the gentleman recommended who will do the job for around $70 plus
> shipping. The quote from the local guy was quite a bit higher. If I have
time,
> I will try to find other shops to get a quote from, but part of the reason
I
> took it in to the first place is they are also the most popular and
largest
> music repair shop in town.

$70 is an unusually low cost for this service. Unfortunately, I've never
worked with this person so am unable to make any comment on his/her ability.
It's doubtful that you will find any one locally who can meet it. As far as
local shops go, most popular and largest doesn't necessarily mean the best.
It simply means the owner/operator knows how to market his business
successfully. Business skills are quite different from repair skills. Of
course he's probably competent also or he couldn't remain popular.

>
> Just a thought about keeping all the keys and screws organized: shouldn't
it be
> possible to remove a few keys at a time, repad, then replace, rather than
> having all of them off at one time? What is the advantage to taking off
ALL the
> keys and bits of metal and springs and tensioners etc.?

Normally one only removes screws and keys not the springs (or anything else)
unless one is broken or weak. Some keys can be removed individually but in
other cases, you must remove all the keys in the group to get at the last
one. And some keys seem to go back on better if you set them in place as a
group and then insert the screws. When I do a complete instrument, I do one
joint at a time rather than strip the entire horn.

As to whether Boosey and Hawkes are good instruments, as with any
instrument, that will be a matter of opinion. Opinions are often not
arrived at rationally. They were one of the better quality brands at the
time. Those produced under the Boosey & Hawkes name were basically a larger
bore instrument than is popular today. That doesn't make them bad. Some
people love the resulting sound and some don't. The larger bore makes
tuning a little more difficult but you are rewarded with a big, rich sound
that is difficult to achieve on the more popular small bore instruments.
Today Boosey & Hawkes no longer produces clarinets under their own name. In
the 1980s, they bought out Buffet and dropped their own line in favor of
continuing the production of the Buffets.

Get your instrument fixed and enjoy it.

Dee Hays
Michigan

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