Klarinet Archive - Posting 000896.txt from 2001/01

From: Ginger Calkins <gicalkin@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [kl] Re: Boosey & Hawkes wood clarinet
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:29:10 -0500

wow! I knew this was the right place to ask about my poor little horn. Thanks
to everyone that has offered advice. As I've read, I realized there are a few
things that I forgot to mention; first of all, this is my ONLY horn, so I
unfortunately do not have a backup while I learn to do my own repair, and
second of all....I got myself talked into playing a classical solo for my best
friend in the whole world's wedding in early June.

So....I don't have 6 months to learn how to fix it, and I don't have anything
to use in the meantime! grrr!

The horn as it stands is barely playable; I argued with the technician to
replace the one pad that was missing entirely [the first pad on the lower
register]. However something else is out of whack as I can NOT play a "b" above
the break [i.e. all fingers down] without starting out on some other note and
working to it, either up or down. I'm assuming it is a quirk of the horn. The
upper ocataves sound very thin and pinched, but I think it is due to the nasty
way I've had to adjust my embouchure [sp! yikes, i know there should be a few
more letters in there. sorry!] to get any sound at all, rather than an inherent
defect in the instrument.

The lower registers [which play with no problems....maybe the octave key needs
adjustment?] have a pleasant enough dark resonation, so I think I would like
the little beasty if it had pads properly done.

I don't know who else I could take it to here in town; I know there are other
instrument sales shops, but it seems this guy is the only one listed under
instrument repair.Plus, I have an inherent mistrust of taking something to
"just a name in a book" without some sort of information or recommendation.
Guess that's why advertising works, right?

All things considered, it's sounding more like my best bet might be to send it
in to the gentleman recommended who will do the job for around $70 plus
shipping. The quote from the local guy was quite a bit higher. If I have time,
I will try to find other shops to get a quote from, but part of the reason I
took it in to the first place is they are also the most popular and largest
music repair shop in town.

Just a thought about keeping all the keys and screws organized: shouldn't it be
possible to remove a few keys at a time, repad, then replace, rather than
having all of them off at one time? What is the advantage to taking off ALL the
keys and bits of metal and springs and tensioners etc.?

thanks again to everyone for writing. I sure appreciate all the advice :)

ginger

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