Klarinet Archive - Posting 000587.txt from 2000/10

From: "Lacy, Edwin" <el2@-----.edu>
Subj: RE: [kl] reed prep
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:02:02 -0400

> The 600 grit I use is marked "wet-or-dry" on the back. It's used for wet
> sanding on paint jobs for cars and such. It holds up in water because
it's
> treated with some sort of water repellant. If you put the grit side
against
> the glass, and polish the back of the reed against the back of the
> sandpaper, the water proofing is transferred to the reed and polished into
it.

What you have is called "wet-or-dry" sandpaper, also waterproof sandpaper,
but more properly silicone carbide paper. It is available from many
sources, including hardware stores, painting supply stores, hobby shops, and
automotive supply stores. One of its primary uses is for sanding automobile
bodies, but it can be used in any application where water will be present.

I don't think there is any water repellant treatment, but rather the glue
that holds the "sand" or grit on the paper is a waterproof glue. The reason
that the back of the sandpaper seems to be useful in sanding the back of the
reed is that the paper itself is somewhat repellant. However, another way
of accomplishing the same thing is to use a less abrasive grade of the
sandpaper. It comes in grades such as 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc., with
the lower numbers being the most abrasive. I have heard of #1800 waterproof
sandpaper, but have never actually seen any. At that point, the back of the
paper would definitely be more abrasive than the front. What I like to use
is #1000 for final polishing of reeds. The hardware stores in my area don't
carry anything less abrasive than #600, so I have to place special orders
for #1000 with a music store.

Ed Lacy
**************************************************************
Dr. Edwin Lacy, Professor of Music
University of Evansville
1800 Lincoln Avenue
Evansville, IN 47722
telephone (812)479-2252; e-mail: EL2@-----.edu
**************************************************************

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