Klarinet Archive - Posting 000503.txt from 2000/10

From: rgarrett@-----.edu
Subj: Re: [kl] Mouthpieces (Was: Changes to Elite and other Buffets)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 09:07:54 -0400

At 08:32 AM 10/10/2000 EDT, you wrote:
>Those reeds that are dried on glass warp for me. They don't dry as evenly.
>The edges especialy pull away from the glass.

My first reaction is that if you plan to store on glass, the preparation
process should change. Of course, if the reeds are not warping with your
current procedure - why change anything? The warpage you describe is
typical - the reason the edges pull away is because the reed is bulging
(changing shape - much as wood and paper change shape when drying) outward
on the bottom. The entire point of sanding the back of the blank/reed is
to seal the back and avoid warpage.

The purpose of my earlier post, other than asking for clarification, was to
demonstrate the position that storing on glass or a grooved surface is not
necessarily a cause and effect for reed warpage. I really believe warpage
comes when a reed is not prepared well - not necessarily in the way it is
stored. However, some reeds will warp again no matter what..........oh well.

><<sand/polish it with 600 grit sandpaper>>
>
>This process would destroy the playing qualities of the V12 3.5's that I use
>straight away. Perhaps on old Morres 12.5 2 1/2's German 12.5mm tip width
it
>worked well - as I seem to recall.

Which qualities would it destroy? I am very interested in this discussion!
If I understand you properly, you do nothing to the back of the reed then?
This would support my belief that warpage is due to the preparation
process - not necessarily the way in which a reed is stored. The entire
premise of making reeds by hand from a tube is based on the thick blank
being sanded in this fashion from the outset. Further, if one buys into
the idea of preparing in this manner, than storage on glass (theoretically)
improves the chance that it will not warp.

When one removes cane from the bottom of the reed - staying away from the
tip of course - and measures with a micrometer, a V12 size 4 blank going
from 3.5 mm to 3.3 mm is not much in terms of the vibrating tip. You might
realize a reed strength loss of .25 - certainly not enough to cause much
anxiety. On the other hand, if you mean sanding the back of the reed
including the tip - absolutely it would destroy qualities of any reed. I
don't sand past the shoulder of the reed on the back. When I do my final
polish with newsprint - I polish the entire back.

It has been my experience that sanding the back of some reeds doesn't work
too well. Specifically: Mitchell Luries (they have a thinner heart than
Vandorens, Morres, and Rico Grand Concert), and Lavoz (but I honestly can't
tell if it is dimensional or because of lousy cane that is apparent with
the LaVoz reeds).

I would like to hear from some people who make reeds from tubes to find out
what they do to prepare the blank prior to cutting the top and playing on
it. What is the preparation of the reed blank designed to do?

Warm wishes,
Roger Garrett

Roger Garrett
Professor of Clarinet
Director, Symphonic Winds
Advisor, IWU Recording Services
Illinois Wesleyan University
School of Music
Bloomington, IL 61702-2900
(309) 556-3268

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