Klarinet Archive - Posting 000503.txt from 1999/12

From: Richard Bush <rbushidioglot@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [kl] Quick question
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:12:55 -0500

Removing and remounting clarinet keys is fairly simple. Good quality tools
appropriate for the task are highly recommended. Ferree's has all the tools you
will need. They are:
Screwdriver F67, Smooth jawed pliers F58-3 or F97 or J22, a spring hook D1A.

Keys of the top joint are removed in this order: G# key, A key, four side keys
(jumper keys)--may need to be removed all at once. Either keep the arbors in the
keys' hinge tubing or return them to the mounting posts. Sometimes the bottom
two side keys can be removed one at a time, starting with the bottom key (side
D#/A#). Top two side keys can either be a telescoping set or they might be
mounted individually. Both ring keys. Start at the top and pull out the rod
screw (arbor). Return the bottom pivot screw to the post. C#/G#. Sliver key
(chromatic or auxiliary D#/A#. Thumb ring. Bb/register key. Read this backwards
to mount the keys.

Bottom joint: Left hand levers for F#/C# and E/B. Low E/B key. F/C key and G#/D#
key. Both are mounted with the same rod screw (arbor). After the rod is pulled,
unhook the wire springs with the spring hook before pulling the keys away from
the posts. F#/C# key. Ring key. Sliver key. Read backwards for mounting.

KEEP ALL PIVOT SCREWS IN THEIR RESPECTIVE KEY POSTS AFTER REMOVING THE KEYS!
This is especially important on older clarinets because the screws don't always
wear the same, and the posts may have been cut to refit the screws. Just don't
assume that all of the pivot screws are interchangeable. They may be, and then
again, maybe not.

Now that you have all the keys off, why not clean it?

Use soft, old toothbrush to clean wooden bodies. Do not use solvents. Do not use
water. If you want to use something to help clean up the wood, use bore oil.
Plastic bodies can be given a bubble bath. Dawn dishwashing liquid is very good
(USA). Plenty of hot water and a toothbrush will do the trick. Clean the finger
holes with a small round brush. Pipe cleaners, folded double, will work.
Thoroughly rinse, and if you have the resource, blow it dry with compressed air.
If not, carefully blot with a soft cloth. WATCH OUT FOR THE SPRINGS---OUCH!

Wipe down the keys. Be careful to not knock off any key corks. If missing, have
them replaced. You may or may not know the exact thickness to use. This is very
important. If you install material that is too thick, the pad won't open enough.
If it is too thin, it will open too much. Stay away from the pads. Use pipe
cleaners and a solvent to clean the hinge tubing. Paper towel and solvent will
clean the screws.

Get a good hypo tipped oiler to use when putting the keys back on.

Mark Charette wrote:

> From: "Bill Hausmann" <bhausman@-----.com>
> > Any cheap set of jeweler's
> > screwdrivers will do for most purposes. I've seen them for as little as
> > $1.00
>
> If the screws you're touching are in good shape - fine (and _please_ use the
> correct size screwdriver - the one that just fits the slot in the head). If
> the screw resists at all or if you want to assemble/disassemble a clarinet,
> buy a _good_ set of jewelers screwdrivers. Stanley makes a reasonable
> all-around set for about $10.00 USD (#66-039); Snap-on makes a set that is
> much better (more comfortable, the top palm rest more stable, multi-diameter
> shank so you can apply different amounts of torque, etc.) but last time I
> ordered them (20 years back) the set was about $25.00 USD - I'm scared to
> think how much they cost _now_!
>
> One of the very first things I bought my son for his clarinet was a set of
> good screwdrivers ...
>
> Cheers,
> Mark C.
>
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