Klarinet Archive - Posting 000608.txt from 1999/10

From: "Franklin Kercher" <kranwli@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [kl] metal clarinets
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 02:21:34 -0400

-----Original Message-----
From: Dee D. Hays <deehays@-----.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: [kl] metal clarinets

>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Krh214@-----.com>
>To: <klarinet@-----.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 4:27 PM
>Subject: [kl] metal clarinets
>
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> iIm new to the list, and an amused owner of what appears to me an, uhm,
>> really well-aged B flat soprano clarinet (excuse me if I get the
>terminolgy
>> not-quite-right. I've never played clarinet--but I've got lots of flutes,
>> whistles, recorders, etc.). One never knows what one will find at a flea
>> market!
>>
>> Anyway, questions:
>> What's the reasonong behind making a clarinet out of metal instead of
>> wood or plastic?
>>
>> This particular horn has on it's bell"
>> *Collegiate*Made by Holton*Elkhart, Wis.
>> serial number 195746. Can anyone help me figure out the age of this
>> instrument (approximate is good enough)
>>
>> I stoped by a woodwind shop today, and bought some reeds, cork stuff,
>a
>> swab and a Valentino pad set, since a cusory inspection indicated that
the
>> pads on there right now are moth eaten.
>> There are also apparently moth eggs on the surface of the
>horn--GROSS!!
>> (like I said, one never knows what one will find at a flea market), so
>> another question: Any recomendations of how best to clean this sucker?
>I'm
>> wildly optimistic about successfully replacing the pads on this horn, and
>I'd
>> hate for the moths to re-attack.
>>
>> I appreciate your responses.
>>
>> Kimberly Holt
>> Raleigh, North Carolina
>> USA
>>
>
>
>The heydey of the metal clarinets was from the 1920s through early 1940s
>although they were made both before and after this time period. The
>majority of them were intended for the student and marching band trade as a
>sturdy, rugged horn for beginners and outdoor use. As such then, most of
>them were beginner grade instruments. The Holton Collegiate was apparently
>one of the better than average ones. There were a few pro ones made in
>metal but these are very rare.
>
>I think it is a good idea to restore it to playing condition just to own a
>little piece of history although the normal metal horn doesn't have any
>significant monetary value. Once restored, it will probably play as well
as
>other beginner horns *of the same era* such as the beginner woods,
bakelite,
>and hard rubber student horns. I would not expect it to play as well as a
>modern beginner instrument such as those made by Buffet, Leblanc, Selmer or
>Yamaha.
>
>Why they selected metal, I can't say for sure but wood does not do well
>outside in bad weather. Bakelite and plastics of that era were rather
>brittle and broke easily so it would be risky to march with one. Hard
>rubber is affected, eventually, by direct sunlight so again you would not
>want to use it too often or too long outdoors.
>
>As far as cleaning the surface, just make SURE you get everything wiped
off.
>It is easier to do this (and install the pads in the keys) with the keys
off
>the horn. You should also clean the inside too of course with an old swab
>or padded rod.
>
>If there is a case, it might need fumigated as insects could be living in
>it. Those guys can eat the pads too if you don't.
>
>Have fun,
>Dee Hays
>Canton, SD
>
>The reason these were made of metal was not only to be tough under "school
kid stress" but also for ease of maintainance. I put my Buffet together
carefully, play, then spend quite some time disassembling it and swabbing,
cleaning, etc. With my old silver Elkhart, I just slap it together for a
battle with scales or couple quick tunes then slap it in the case. As for
plastic horns, they can break bell or tenon pretty easy if you drop them.
Plus good high impact plastic wasn't developed untill WW2 and it wasn't
anywhere near as good as the stuff we use nowadays.
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