Klarinet Archive - Posting 001173.txt from 1999/05

From: Mark Gustavson <mgustav@-----.com>
Subj: Re: [kl] Re: sandpaper
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 17:46:51 -0400

I play with an oboist who has #2000 sandpaper. It was originally design for
buffing fighter jet canopies.

MG

Edwin V. Lacy wrote:

> On Wed, 26 May 1999, Mark Weinstein wrote:
>
> > Query for the Sand paper experts out there. Is 220 the FINEST ? When I
> > went to Wal-mart recently all I could find was 180. The 180 had a
> > ADHESIVE BACK which would be nice and useful in making a "tool" to
> > sand reeds, etc. I realized that the 180 wasn't high enough at the
> > time in Wal-Mart. Does it go any higher than 220? Does Ferree's sell
> > a small hand sanding tool and sandpaper?
>
> I don't think I am a sandpaper expert, but, yes, it goes much higher.
> Usually, #220 grit is referred to as "finishing paper," but much less
> abrasive grades are available.
>
> For much higher grades, look at waterproof sandpaper, also known as "wet
> or dry" paper or silicon carbide paper. This is intended primarily for
> use in sanding auto bodies for repainting, so it often is available at
> auto supply stores in addition to hardware stores. It comes in grades or
> degrees of abrasiveness such as 220, 320, 400, 600, and even much higher.
> I personally like to use #1000 for sealing reeds, and I have seen it
> advertised in grades as high as #1600. (That means that it has about the
> same degree of abrasiveness on both sides of the paper!) With these
> higher grades, you can't remove much cane, but you can seal the pores
> without changing the essential dimensions of the reed.
>
> There is a company which makes supplies for model builders which can
> supply the finer grades. This company is "MicroMark." They are located
> somewhere in New Jersey, and have a web site. Also, a music store in
> Bloomington, Indiana, "Pro Winds," regularly stocks the #1000 waterproof
> sandpaper.
>
> The waterproof sandpaper is much more effective when both the paper and
> the cane are wet, but it can be used dry also.
>
> I made an easel for myself for the purpose of sanding the backs of reeds.
> Take a piece of plate glass, perhaps 1/4" thick and 4" square. Using
> contact cememt, glue #400 waterproof sandpaper to one side and #600 to the
> other. It is great for making sure the back of the reed is flat. It can
> also be used to work on the table of a mouthpiece if you are so inclined.
> You can buy a commercial version of this from a music accessories company
> for about $25, or you can make one, as I did, for about $1.
>
> Ed Lacy
> el2@-----.edu
>
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