Klarinet Archive - Posting 000641.txt from 1998/10

From: "Cox, Graeme" <Graeme.Cox@-----.nz>
Subj: RE: [kl] Cork pads
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:19:00 -0400

Doug,

The hot glue stuff takes a minute or two to set, usually long enough to
quickly fit and close the key so the pad adjusts to match the seat. Then tie
it down for a while and later remove the key to inspect the sealing ring
mark for evenness. You can sand it at that stage but run the risk of
spoiling the flat surface. Better to reheat and adjust. Sanding the surface
can sometimes expose small voids in the cork that can affect the seal and
really require you to start again. If you do sand, you need to finish with a
very fine paper to polish the cork. Also look for imperfections in the
wooden sealing ring. If there are any fine chips or cracks, you should
repair them first, because cork will generally not mould around
imperfections as easily as does a bladder pad.

Once the sealing ring is clearly established and the joint passes your
suck/vacuum test (pop a cork into the end of the joint and suck madly at the
top), you can carefully sand a bevel around the circumference of the pad.
This removes much of the cork outside of the sealing ring and will reduce
the amount of cork coming into contact with the wood outside the tone hole
sealing ring when the pad closes. This allows the wooden edge to bite more
strongy into the cork pad, helping the sealing process. It also smooths the
airflow past the pad when it is open.

Cheers,
Graeme Cox
Graeme.Cox@-----.nz

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Sears [SMTP:dsears@-----.org]
> Sent: Thursday, October 15, 1998 11:26 AM
> To: klarinet@-----.org
> Subject: Re: [kl] Cork pads
>
> After the glue has set, if the seal isn't perfect, do you sand the cork or
> remelt the glue?
>
> --Doug
> ---------------------------
> Doug Sears dsears@-----.org/~dsears
>
> Graeme Cox wrote:
> >You can buy pre-cut cork pads that look as if they have been stamped out
> of
> >cork sheet. Or you can buy your own cork sheet of various thicknesses and
> >cut out your own pads. I have an old set of circular hand punches that do
> a
> >good job. Or you can make the smaller pads from any pieces of cork that
> >come to hand, but you must be careful to select material that looks of
> good
> >quality. For larger pads, using sheet seems a better option, but I have
> >found that it can be really difficult to get large cork pads to seal.
> Many
> >oboes use cork on the upper joint, but mostly for the keys that are
> closed
> >by finger pressure and also the small register keys.
> >
> >Experimenting and learning is much more fun than relying on a repair
> shop!
>

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