Klarinet Archive - Posting 000530.txt from 1997/10

From: Roger Garrett <rgarrett@-----.edu>
Subj: Re: Roger's comments on reed working materials
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:00:05 -0400

On Mon, 13 Oct 1997 Jrykorten@-----.com wrote:

> So you would recommend spending a lot of money on a reed knife before you
> know your preference?

I had several to choose from......and when my students ask, I recommend.
I spent money on a nice set of kitchen knives before I ever cut with
one....but I took lots of time to ask people which were good for the
money.

> > This is nice information, but the original post was from a high school
> > student asking about the quality of cane in a Vandoren reed, not where to
> > buy cane for reed blanks. The person who was asking is just beginning to
> > accumulate tools for working on reeds....not starting out making reeds.
>
> I guess I have to pay CLOSER ATTENTION! :-) Thank you. But what the heck is
> someone going to do to an already made reed with a knife? Didn't you learn
> that scraping a reed with a knife destroys its structural integrity by
> tearing fibers out?

Uh oh, I guess I better stop using a knife then!!!! ;) No...I believe
that is a lot of hooey myself!

> A file, reed rush or sand paper is much more appropriate
> and controllable. A reed knife is good for whittling a blank down to the
> point where one can begin with a file. So I suppose that is why I assumed the
> posting party was interested in making reeds.

Actually, one does not whittle, one scrapes. The technique is important.

> > You only need 320 and 600 for working commercial reeds. Anything else is
> > too much wasted money on results that differ not at all. No file is
> > necessary, unless the reed worker is planning to change the contour of the
> > cut of the reed. If such is the case, one might recommend chaning brands
> > of reeds.

> If you want to change the width of a reed you need to use a more coarse grit
> than 300. Preferably 100, sometimes 220 if you want to do a little. You
> probably accept a wider range of reeds than I do as I find it is necessary to
> to use a file a lot of times. Especially near the heel.

Not for commercial reeds, which is what the original post asked about.
320 takes the sides down plenty fast. But again....if you want to change
them that much (dimensionally), why not switch brands to a german brand
that specifies a smaller witdth?

> > > say enough about the Santy's permanent reed rush (also sold cheaper as a
>
> > Reed rush wears out quickly and breaks. 320 grit sandpaper, cut into
> > squares is just as effective and lasts longer - is easier to store.
>
> That is why I recommend this super fine diamond coated file - Santy's
> permanent reed rush. But for a truely controllable non clogging material
> nothing beats reed rush. You are wrong in my opinion.

I don't have any problem with a file of the kind you describe. Um....how
can I be wrong in your opinion when I was expressing my own??

> > The Art of Clarinetistry is published by Guillaume Press, 3040 Exmoor Rd.
> > Ann Arbor, Michigan 48109 (303) 971-7357 It possible that this book's
> > copyright was purchased by another publisher.......readers/contributers of
> > the listserv...?
> Mark has already told us LAST YEAR that this is no longer in print from
> Guillaume.
>
> Now YOU havfe to pay closer attention Roger.

I suppose so....but I started the listserv just this year......and I
haven't read the archives. Someone already posted the correction, and I
thanked them. Try not to be irritated at other's opinions, and I'll try
to be more careful in how I phrase an answer. :)

Roger Garrett