Klarinet Archive - Posting 000177.txt from 1997/08

From: GTGallant@-----.com
Subj: Repair, mouthpieces,etc
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 12:07:17 -0400

Tan Ann -

First off, don't attempt a repair unless you are confident you will have a
successful outcome. If you are familiar enough with the clarinet and how
EVERY key functions (i.e. opposing action) then go ahead. The idea is to
experiment and figure stuff out as you go, but be perfect! I learned how to
repair on my own by simply studying the function of the clarinet. I've made
mistakes but have corrected them before any real damage was done. I guess I
am one of those people who like to take chances - but that is the only way to
succeed, isn't it? Of coarse, I was already proficient with building and
repairing machines of all kinds but aptitude alone won't help if you know
nothing about how a clarinet operates. I cannot teach you basic
craftsmanship skills, the essential ingredient you will need. So if you
have 5 thumbs, do not continue!

Once you have become familiar with the clarinet, repair becomes extremely
simple. Replacing a broken tenon or socket is about the extreme in repair
work so leave that to a seasoned veteran - unless you know you can fix it.
To replace a pad you'll need the following tools: 1.) a lighter or candle
2.) small screw driver or butter knife 3.) hot glue - don't use shellac it's
too hard and messy 4.) a new pad. First, remove the key with the pad in
question. Second, apply heat via lighter or candle to pad cup for roughly 6
seconds and remove the old pad. Be careful, the cup is hot! Most repair
manuals state that an alcohol lamp should be used so black soot doesn't coat
the pad cup surface. This can be avoided by holding the flame from the
lighter or candle about 1/4 of an inch away from the surface of the pad cup.
Don't waste you're money on an unnecessary alcohol lamp! If soot happens
to collect, just wipe it off! Third, put a piece of hot glue in the pad cup
( if needed). Their should be enough glue to hold the pad in place and
nothing more. Usually the right amount is when the bottom of the cup is
almost covered and does not exceed the flat area and extend to the walls of
the cup. Fourth, put a new pad in cup. Make sure it is the right size or it
will be difficult to seat properly. To obtain the proper size, bring the old
pad and /or key to a music store or repair shop and get the same size or one
that fits. Stay away from thin pads. The pad, when the cup is absent of
glue, should stick out beyond the rim a little and should not move side to
side when placed in the cup. Fifth, re-heat the cup so the new pad sticks.
Keep the flame directly under the cup so the pad doesn't get ruined. Sixth,
replace the key on the clarinet.

Now the most crucial step in pad replacement - seating. First, Hold open the
key (if it is normally closed). Second, put a piece of wet paper on the
surface of the wood or plastic so it is protected from the open flame.
Again, be careful because the paper can light up! You can disregard this
step if you feel it is unnecessary. It's all personal preference and mildly
important. Third, apply heat to pad cup. Fourth, remove paper from clarinet
surface (if you used it) and drop the key onto the tone hole under the
spring's own pressure. If an open key, shut the key manually by either
pushing on the face of the pad cup or pushing the lever. Fifth, check the
pad to see if it is seated uniformly and flat on the tone hole. This can be
accomplished in many different ways. The best being by sight. If you
remove the key and look at the pad (after it has been on for approx. 5 min.)
you'll notice, or hope, that a uniform circular indentation is now on the
pad. It takes pads a while to conform to the tone hole and show severe,
permanent indentation so don't panic. Another test is the suction test.
Take the joint with the pad you replaced and cover all tone holes with your
fingers. With the other hand, or a cork, block off one end of the bore. Now
blow or inhale (moderate volume of air) into the open end and listen for any
air leakage. By doing this I'm assuming all other pads are seated and
functioning properly. Isolate the problem pad and reseat again. The pad
surface should be parallel to the pad cup and extend slightly above it. If
the pad is crooked, something may be wrong so re-heat the cup and repeat the
procedure. Most of the time if the pad is parallel to the cup, it will seat
properly. If not, a slight angle to the pad is okay. The goal is to obtain a
perfect seal so air cannot escape, so shoot for that logic.

The B40 mouthpiece is an excellent choice! If it works, keep it. Might I
suggest in the future you try the B45 Lyre. It sounds similar to the B40 but
is more open and easier to blow with less resistance. I switched to the B45
Lyre from the B45 a year ago and am thrilled with it's performance. I used
the Rovner ligature for some time and liked how it worked. The BG is nearly
the same thing as the Rovner so why switch? Ligatures have little effect on
the sound quality anyway. The same guys who say "reed this and mouthpiece
that" are also convinced a ligature may be the difference from sounding like
an Acker Bilk to a Jonathan Cohler! Right now I'm using a Ripamonti plastic
slip-on ligature. It seems to produce the best results tonally (if not the
same as every other brand) and is easy to use since there are no screws to
adjust.

I apologize that I could not answer all of your repair questions at this time
but I have to practice now. Feel free at any time to ask me specific
questions about repair work and the like and I'll gladly give you detailed
instructions on what to do. Remember, if you believe you can do it, you can!
Do not be duped in to thinking you're an idiot by evil repairmen!

- The Repair Guru