Klarinet Archive - Posting 000548.txt from 1996/09

From: David Niethamer <niethamer@-----.EDU>
Subj: reed tip sanding
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 23:06:46 -0400

Bill Fogle wrote:

> I turn the reed "up" onto its side and sand away what
> comprises the width of the reed. When turned back and placed
> onto the mouthpiece, the reed is narrower. I attempt to sand
> that side which is weaker (if there is one . . . often, there
> isn't).

Doing this can help to balance the reed if one side is harder. Also, it
seems to be helpful if the width of the reed doesn't exceed the width of
the mouthpiece, at least the part above the ligature. The response seems
improved if the width of the reed matches that of the mouthpiece.

> I abrade the tip as an alternative to the use of a reed
> trimmer, which, I am compelled to believe, cauterizes or
> damages the longitudial fibers. Yes, I suppose there is a
> possibility I am fraying the fibers. Using the #600, I hope to
> minimize this. The procedure is still in "Trying Out" phase.
> So far, it's working really well for me.

Most trimmers/clippers crush the fibres of the reed, which seems to affect
the way the reed responds and sounds. Depending on the piece of cane, you
can fray the cane fibers, but you can eliminate this by dragging the reed
lightly over the sandpaper, front of the vamp, then the back, the way you'd
remove the burl when sharpening a knife.

The Vandoren clipper uses a knife blade, but I've never worked with one
long enough to determine whether it stays sharp for very long. I never felt
the urge to spend a lot of money for one, either, because I learned to do
it as well or better by hand.

eric nelson wrote:

> I also finish the tip of the reed with sandpaper, but I'm
> using a #1500 paper, which some truvalue hardware stores
> carry. One must be careful to not chip away the corner of the
> tip ; so the motion should be from edge toward center of reed.
> I cut about a 2 inch square of the paper and work with many
> very light strokes, rather than trying to do it quickly with a
> few heavy strokes.

I use 320 or 400 wet/dry sandpaper, with no problems. I've also used 220
sandpaper off the ReeDual. If you have a light enough touch, it works OK.

> It also seems to help if the reed is wet, and the sandpaper has been
>dipped in > water [use the black wet-or-dry kind].

I do my reed dry. I don't know why - I suppose wet would work, too. Dry
works fine - I rarely ruin the tip.

Greg Baker asked:

> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get a profile of
> the mouthpiece curve to work with (say a piece of cardboard or
> something)? The one suggestion I have been given so far is a
> photocopy, which did not work, because it was too dark no
> matter what I did...

and Bill Fogle added:

> I never had good matches between reed tip shape and mouthpiece
> tip shape. Now, the two are beginning to look alike. Possibly,
> this is why I feel an improvement in response.

This is the whole point of matching the shape of the reed tip to the shape
of the mouthpiece rails - better response, and more feeling of stability in
the reed. Greg, allow me to make a suggestion - use your eyes!! After a few
tries, even I, king klutz with tools, managed to get a respectable tip that
matches my mouthpice. Much easier and cheaper than expensive tools, and not
any more work than trying to come up with a template for your reeds/mpc.

Good reeds to you all,

David Niethamer

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
David Niethamer, Principal Clarinet
Richmond Symphony Orchestra
niethamer@-----.edu
http://users.aol.com/dbnclar1/
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