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Klarinet Archive - Posting 000019.txt from 1994/08
From: Clark W Fobes <reedman@-----.COM>
Subj: Re: which oil?
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 02:19:50 -0400
On Fri, 5 Aug 1994, Ylo Mets wrote:
> Hello klarinetters!
>
> I am a physicist who has learned to play in youth and practiced
> in amateur bands. During 6 months on this list I have learned
> a lot, but I want more :-)
> I am about to oil my clarinet after a four-year break in playing it.
> I got a bottle of 'bore oil' produced by C.G. Conn, Ltd. Is it the right
> substance? Text on the bottle tells nothing about wooden instruments,
> so I got suspicious.
> Thanks for advice and enlighting discussions.
>
> Ylo Mets. (ylo@-----.se)
>
> Stockholm,
> Sweden
>
I have done a fair amount of reading on this subject and on the
"technology" of wood. Very little is actually written on the subject that
is substantive and not just based on "what my teacher told me..."
I have come to the conclusion that oiling the bore has very little positive
effect. In fact, as mentioned by others, the use of too much oil can gum
up pads if the the oil reaches the tone hole seat.
It is NOT true that clarinets will crack from lack of oiling. Clarinets
crack mostly due to a rapid increase of bore temperature. As the inside
expands the outside cannot expand at the same rate and the tension causes
the clarinet to crack at its weakest point. (Usually between the top two
trill tone holes) Clarinets can crack from lack of humidity as well.
Buffet suggests that clarinets be stored and played at an average
humidity of at least 50%. I do know that billets used by most makers now
are impregnated with oil under pressure as part of the seasoning process.
I believe that the idea is to prevent the wood from checking or cracking
from rapid loss of moisture in the manufacturing process.
I must stress that the above oiling process is done under pressure to
force the oil into the wood. The superficial application of oil barely
penetrates. I read an article in an old "Woodwind" magazine written by
the Boston oboe maker Lauben. He placed an oboe joint in oil and let it
soak for about six months. After that time he cut the joint at various
cross sections and found that the oil had not penetrated more than very,
very superficially. His conclusion was that oiling has no significant
consequence.
What I think is most important to remember is that African blackwood
remains hygroscopic for many years and that clarinets are particularly
susceptible to moisture loss and retention in the first months of playing.
Another common cause of cracks (particularly in new clarinets) is from
the top tenon swelling against the barrel joint. If a barrel joint is
tight and becomes stuck, the trapped moisture continues to swell the
tenon. Due to the metal ferrel on the barrel the pressure of the swelling
joint can cause the clarinet to crack (usually at the register vent)
I think that the best solution to avoiding cracks is to:
#1. NEVER play a cold clarinet without warming up the outside first. Do
this by wrapping your arms and body around it or place it inside your
coat against your body.
#2. Swab your clarinet as often as possible. When putting your clarinet
away swab the tenon joints well and remove all moisture form the sockets.
water left in the bore can raise the grain and if done habitually can
start wood rot.
#3. If you live in an area where the humidity is often less than 50% keep
a humidifier device in your case. I think DAMPITS work great. Don't place
them in the bore. Remember that in winter the humidity is very low when it
is clear and that heating also removes moisture form the air. If you
notice that tenons are becoming very loose, that joint rings are loose or
that keys are binding get a humidifier immediately. You may even want to
store your instruments in a small closet with a bucket of water to
humidify the entire space.
I certainly don't think that a little bit of bore oil will hurt, but be
judicious. Vegetable oil? Too much might make your instrument smell funny.
But, I do know that Buffet uses some type of salad oil when polishing the
bores.
Clark W Fobes
