| Brought to you this hour by |  | Advertising and Web Hosting on Woodwind.Org! |
Doublereed Archive - Posting 000015.txt from 2007/10
From: Michael Benthin <benthin@-----.net>
Subj: Re: [DR-L] Re: How to ship an oboe
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 08:59:10 -0400
I'll jump in here with my knowledge of bicycle helmet research and the
personal experience of having a bike crash. In 1989, While fiddling
with the sender on my front fork my hand was pulled in against the tire,
and this stopped the bike instantly, causing me to do a faceplant that
deformed my helmet foam to half its thickness over my brow; nevertheless
I broke my upper jaw and eye socket. It wasn't that bad, as this crash
got me away from "obsessive cycling" back to playing oboe.
The role of padding whether around your oboe or around your head, is
to SLOW the rate of deacceleration down to protect what the padding
covers. In other words, the force is spread out over a longer time.
Skid-Lid helmets are no more because they were lined with basically
scuba gear closed cell foam that crushed too quickly and "bottomed out"
allowing the brain to smash against the skull that itself could crack.
Styrofoam is used in all helmets because it has a safe deacceration that
deforms the foam, but this is permanent and one must get a new helmet.
For my money, most oboe cases have only velvet over a shaped cavity
of wood. Subject this to the deacceleration of a car crash or dropping
it from 6 feet up, and the keys will smash against the wood and force
will be applied through the keys to the wood of the oboe. Slow this with
other padding around the case, and the force of the oboe against the
sides of the case cavities will be less. An oboe has much less mass
than your head, so less padding is needed. I carry the oboe case in a
laptop computer case that has a layer of thick foam around the central
pocket. As for shipping, one must consider the CONSTANT jiggling that
may be present on a train or truck- many small knocks against a key can
stress it as much as a larger knock. (Note an old mechanic's trick-
-lots of small taps against a stuck bolt is better than giant whacks),
which is why wrapping the joints so they can't move in the case is a
good idea. Wrap them minus the case and then put them in a box well
separated by foam that will keep its position during shipment.
Styrofoam nuggets are excellent padding around fragile objects, but one
must pack these in really tight to prevent settling and allow the
deacceleration.
philfrei@-----.com wrote:
> In addition to the double boxing that Miriam describes, it's a good idea
> to wrap the individual oboe parts in large pieces of tissue-thin paper,
> so the pieces rest snugly within the case and don't move around.
>
> - Phil Freihofner
--
"MUTS" = Michael's Ultimate Thumb Saver - Oboe/English Horn Support
. __,--______@@__________________/| Michael Benthin
. >>>--(_%____"o_o_o|_o_o_o_*_*__|*____ | 24 Poor Farm Rd
. " @@ | Pennington, NJ
. zip 08534
. Can't Slip! Balanced! ph 609-737-3867
. ------------8-
.
. .Mike Benthin in NJ __ |
.247K mi on original engine ______/__| (63 panel camper sold)
. . . /=__==__===_= 75 bus
. . . . 78 VW Camper -T-|E[__][__]|[_]\ (77 Westy-sold)
. . . all over USA 0 | _ | `|__ |} (77 Westy-parted)
. . =-(_)-----(_)`--= (71 Westy rusto in woods)
(74 Westy-parted)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
For personal help: email doublereed-owner@-----.org
Doublereed is a service of Woodwind.Org, Inc. http://www.woodwind.org
