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Doublereed Archive - Posting 000063.txt from 2007/03
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <primobassoon@-----.net>
Subj: [DR-L] Re: Plastic binding for bassoon reeds
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 13:59:17 -0500
> Hi Lawrence, doesnt capilarity distributes ("sucks") the glue the
> full legnth of the blades? from tip to root?
> the reason for my question is that I'm trying to make a large reed
> for a Duduk and I'm willing to try different methods.
> Why damp? There are cyano cements which have a thicker consistency;
> have you tried them?
I haven't had a problem with this if I kept the reed blade up while
transfering to the drying rack. I've put a plaque in and don't hear the
cracking noise of breaking glue. It hasn't been a problem. This is a
porous product and the capilary effect seems to be more pronounced with
plexiglass or some other hard surface/slick/nonporous material. If the
acralate is put on dry it will act differently and your reed won't return to
its wet state the same. I do it damp & it seems to work great. I've let
reeds dry to the bone and no seperations or misalignments from drying out.
The wires stay put except for the top wire whis has no glue. Oh yes I just
apply the acralate on the tube connection below the middle wire. This is
probably why the capilary action doesn't get into the blade. It however
does penetrate crushed cane and the combo is extremely strong. Thicker
varieties while working won't penetrate as well. The 3 to 5 second variety
works well. Just don't get your fingers too close. It will bond instantly.
Acetone will disolve it though saving you a trip to the emergency room. If
you are quick to take your fingers off you might get it to rellease but then
it becomes a comedy act with the other had getting cought & back and forth
it goes. That's usually with excess fluid. 4 drops usually does it. One
down each side crack. One each scoreed side and the drip usually gets the
bottom wire which I've bent down to touch the tube. that gets cut off when
finishing. . Lawrence Rhodes.
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