Doublereed Archive - Posting 000051.txt from 2003/05

From: Cal <czoboe@-----.com>
Subj: Re: [DR-L] New subject - Wires on oboe reeds
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 18:56:47 -0400

Patrick,

Yes, solder does contain lead. However, the coating
on #20 copper wire is so thin and so little wire is
used that I don't see any danger of lead causing any
problems.

Thanks for your concern.

Cal

--- dblereed@-----.com wrote:
> Cal,
> Something jumped out at me when I read your
> E-mail. You said you use
> solder coated wire. Unless I'm mistaken, I believe
> solder contains lead. If
> so, this could pose a problem as lead is considered
> a poison. Gang, let me
> know if I'm right or wrong. Many thanks.
> .
> Patrick McFarland
> English horn & Oboe, Atlanta Symphony
> McFarland Double Reed Shop
> (404) 321-5356
> (404) 634-3796 - Fax
> http://www.McFarlandDoubleReed.Com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cal" <czoboe@-----.com>
> To: <doublereed-l@-----.edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [DR-L] New subject - Wires on oboe
> reeds
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am the person who asked the question about wires
> on
> > oboe reeds. I am glad to see that other people
> have
> > tried using them. At one time I thought it was a
> > 'no-no' and was even afraid to say that I have
> tried
> > using them with success.
> >
> > I have been using profiled cane and sometimes the
> > reeds are open too much, sometimes ~4 times too
> much.
> > After purchasing a copy of 'The Oboist's Reed
> Doctor'
> > by Dr. Sandra Downing, I thought I would give it a
> > try.
> >
> > First of all I found that twisting the wires on
> the
> > outside edge of the cane instead of the center
> works
> > much better than in the middle of the cane. I put
> the
> > wire between the top of the lay and the binding,
> > sometimes right next to the binding. I believe
> this
> > location will have minimal effect on the
> vibrations.
> > This location also keeps the wires pretty far away
> > from your lips.
> >
> > After the wire is attached, I adjust the opening
> by
> > squeezing the wires between my fingers to open or
> > close the reed.
> >
> > I use two wraps of #20 solder coated wire.
> >
> > Thanks for the comments,
> >
> > Cal
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Arthur Grossman <artg@-----.edu> wrote:
> > > You're the first oboist I've run into who admits
> > > that wires, if they were
> > > manageable, would not be such a bad idea. Have
> you
> > > tried different metals
> > > as well as thicknesses of wire? I have only in
> the
> > > past few years become
> > > aware of the considerable differences in how
> > > different materials affect
> > > vibration. I have tried the usual (for
> basooninsts)
> > > annealed brass and
> > > also copper and stainless steel. The steel was,
> in
> > > my opinion, useless,
> > > the brass continues to be best for bassoon, but
> > > oddly, I like the cooper
> > > on Heckelphone. This refers to the 1st wire
> only.
> > > The material used for
> > > the 2nd and 3rd wires seems to have no
> noticeable
> > > effect. There is also
> > > some controversy over the best diameter of wire.
> I
> > > continue to use 22
> > > gauge for both bassoon and Heckelphone, 20 gauge
> for
> > > contra. I have not,
> > > myself, found any advantage in the hard-to-find
> 21
> > > gauge wire.
> > >
> > >
> > > Arthur Grossman, Professor Emeritus
> > > Bassoon, Heckelphone and Contrabassoon
> > > School of Music
> > > Box 353450
> > > University of Washington
> > > Seattle, WA 98195-3450
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > DOUBLEREED-L mailing list
> > > DOUBLEREED-L@-----.edu
> > >
> >
>
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> >
> >
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> >
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